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 Coronavirus or not, I shaved my own head! Among other things 
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Post Re: Coronavirus or not, I shaved my own head! Among other th
The last several posts talked about either attempts of mitigating rooftop trespassing/ambushes or burglaries. The rooftop post dwells into a bit of trespassing criminal elements. The rooftop post gets its own trespassing countermeasure post because it is trespassing without readily accessible detection/transverse. You wouldn't normally see or know where is the intruder.

This post is to address this element, at least on a general level.

Now, given the situation in concrete evidence, countermeasures against burglaries are given the higher emphasis. However, we sometimes forget that trespassing, is itself, a crime. Burglary involves the unlawful entry of a building or the like of a similar nature. Trespassing involves the unlawful entry of land (aka real property). The land definition consists of surface, subsoil, and airspace. There's trespassing to person and chattel, but those are usually acts outside the means of unlawful entry.

So, what to do about trespassing, especially trespassing of land? The common countermeasures are usually some anti-trespassing sign and some camera. The methods aren't exactly countering the offense because it is not exactly direct enough. A sign is just some notice, just a louder notification. I don't think a sign itself would constitute enough force, but it's still something for the cops to note down. I mean, I think it's obvious that the laws against trespassing should prevail over useless and unlawful excuses. Having a sign to just enforce this law is so ridiculous, but you go with the ropes and roll with it. Yeah, get a sign, maybe more.

There's also the fence, which would work to some degree, as long its purpose isn't compromised, then it should work. A wall, a tall wall, is probably better, probably better.

Cameras can help report on trespassers, but it won't do much good if the use of masks and disguises are in place. In times, it can be an useless reporting investment in terms of limited output from the time, effort, and money spent. However, if you are viewing the footage yourself and don't care for the matter of identity, then a detection would do wonders to provide you a time gap and some breathing space to quickly prepare for the situation. This rings true for trespassing of land that might escalate into immediate distress, especially felonies. That means assault, ambush, battery, murder, attempted murder, robbery, etc. Other than the criticism about the effectiveness of a camera, we have to address the power supply and monitoring communication protocol of security system operations. Be it (mounted or unmounted) cameras or alarms, the power is normally electricity. If the power goes out, so does the security system program. You can improvise with batteries, solar power, uninterruptible power supply, and/or backup generator. With batteries, you have to buy again per unit depletion. Solar power can be circumvented so it's just like electricity. Uninterruptible power supply needs to be plugged in during the case of an outage. You can keep devices plugged in, but it's back to the batteries spending budget again! Backup generator consumes fuel, but its supply may not be a consistent. I hope that it can run as backup power without the need to plug in devices. Would that be convenient? Ignoring the possibility of tampering and theft against the camera and alarm, with its power supply, we have to look into the monitoring communication protocol. Cameras, by themselves, will not work. Writing record to a video is still risk to destroy evidence. If no one's monitoring, it's useless. Unfortunately, we don't have the time in the world to just watch. Even if we do, that power ain't going to replenish itself! This is where the monitoring service come in. It's quite the invasion to privacy and any dispatch call, while helpful, may not be helpful during a imminent dangerous situation. Same can be said for alarms, but privacy might be considered. I'm just saying that it's not exactly defense in terms of impediment. It's more of defense in terms of detection. That being said, detection bridges of communication consists of phone line, internet, and cellular radio. It's obvious that damage done to wires are easy as malicious. Very scary stuff can happen. The cell is like a walkie talkie transmitting data through the cellular towers/satellites, but remember it's not a 24/7 guarantee uptime. There may be instances when the radio may have to reset itself, or the towers/satellites may shutdown. God forbid if there is a way to hijack, tamper, disrupt radio communication. I know it isn't some fucking barrier like top secret facilities, but according to modern war history, there are ways! Remember the cracking of Enigma? Like that, but more sinister!

This next method is a common one, one that I forgot.
As easy as a sign, outside lights activated from premise is said to deter unwilling trespassers. This is especially true if they don't want to be seen. I can't say about the odds, other than a possible extra incentive for more caution to the wind. Light can further the stress and need to sleep. It can also be a two way street in terms of vision. You better know what you're doing when handling light! However, let's us say that there's a way to close the curtains. A mess with the fuse is enough to cause fucking problems. This is especially true if you're dealing with a serial killer, trespasser/burglar/robber/murderer/ambusher, or something consistently/persistently harassing in nature. Not even a backup generator would help if left unsecured. If you ever find a situation like this, oh boy. I would believe that the scary scenario presented in security commercials wouldn't be anymore false. It's going to be scary time from there out. However, a flashlight on one's person (including smart positions) could be handy.

Now, we are at the core of the issue. Would it be okay to shoot at a trespasser? The situation varies. The presiding laws are both the castle doctrine and stand-your-ground law, not duty to retreat. When it becomes necessary to defend against serious crimes, is usually the green go. And that's the gist of it, given the vagueness of the murky. Just make sure to get the sign as a measure to lawful compliance.

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Sun Apr 04, 2021 12:50 pm
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Post Re: Coronavirus or not, I shaved my own head! Among other th
There is also the "No loitering, no soliciting" sign, but that's for areas adjacent to public property. So if someone is lingering about on the border of private property, that usually means they're spying and setting up for a scheme of some sort. It can just be theft, but there are serial killers, and I mean the sexual types. Soliciting can be a front for a scam, info probing, interior probing, or even worse, a carried out attempted trespassing and burglary by group. Of course, it would just be an straight up assault and robbery of the person who let his/her/its confidence get the best of him/her/it.

While I do like the assertive tone of the posted sign, it is not actually a deterrence. It's like a fucking permit, paralegal practice, all those things. If you want a real deterrence, prepare both indirect/direct defense in case things go down fast. The "No loitering, no soliciting" sign would help in the aftermath. Sometimes, the law requires you to enforce by initiative. If you got loitering going on, it's best not to confront or be seen. The agent(s) have already targeted the premise so better to be safe than exposed. If you can, try calling the authorities to check up on the what's-the-scheme-going-to-be. If you got soliciting going on, oh man, you can be in deep shit. Try at the first utmost, to avoid contact and keep guard against trespassing. If you cannot avoid contact, do your utmost best to end the soliciting as fast as possible. Tell the agent of your disinterest and get going to inform the authorities about the solicitation in progress. You can tell the agent beforehand in an attempt to end the scam front. Of course, you can just bolt and break away as fast as you fucking can. You are not obligated to obey solicitors, especially of confrontation or hot prowl burglary. You must then check for any trespassing that could take place during the distraction. Because of the potential of sophistication, rash action might be the best possible outcome in this scenario. Hell, I had been solicited by suspicious people during my tertiary education days. I was fucking asked for my personal information too! It might not be the worse of the worst, but it was certainly a hellish experience. It's like ghetto days, and you're just trying to fulfill the gentry quota. You just can't avoid it. En garde? Sheesh! Well, anyways, rash action may also involve handling and readying firearm. Why? Well, it's not to scare (but you might impose a threatening gesture/posture) the agent off. In very rare cases, you may need to show that you mean business. With a firearm handled and readied, you can close off communications and check for any trespassing that may happen during the distraction. This is the optimum of rash action. Still, if things are to go down, it is best to post a "No loitering, no soliciting" sign on a front sided window.

Well, I guess since things will go down, especially with the corona recession, you might need to do it. Loitering and soliciting are instances of pretense, which could evolve into a confrontational act, usually of a deliberate design. No one wants to be noticed (exposed is the correct term, vulnerable under public scrutiny, with no guarantee to safeguard against risks), but you know how's the law go.

YEAH, SLEEP OBVIOUSLY MEANS TO STEAL! YEAH!

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Thu Apr 08, 2021 7:36 pm
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Post Re: Coronavirus or not, I shaved my own head! Among other th
This is more of a non-coronavirus health-related issue, but summer is coming and not all is well!

We may not think about it, but belly button infections are a thing. Call me a retard, but I usually leave sensitive things alone, assuming that I knew what I was doing. Summer could have contribute to the risk. The said factors of occurrence are bacteria, dead skin cells, sweat, and lint. Anyways, not looking until the pain starts up the blasters (it probably could be preventive), too late, I can only hope! This doesn't occur too often, but practicing quick cold showers (I know for guys, it's almost a social custom) could miss some parts. And that's what happens. The belly button (sometimes with yeast) infection, that is.

Two articles to explain.
[1] [2]

Okay, other than that, I could have imagined how the prehistory without soap, could have been a painful one. Men of the past would have fell and crumple on the floor. It must been a short and savage life, or just a choice to persevere through a long life of unresolvable/unrelieved suffering. Maybe, the biology of the ancient humans are chronically different, then it be just a matter of natural adaptation.

Okay, we have addressed the problem, but not the solution. I mean, practice is key, not just diet. It's quite the specific topic. What needs to be done, on a daily basis, is to soap up and soak the belly button. I'm not sure if cold water will just do, especially on a daily occurrence. After bathing, you will need to dry the belly button completely. Moisture from water contact could promote bacterial growth. The side, not end, of the cotton swab, would be a perfect recommendation of lighting tapping/rubbing the belly button dry. Avoid tightening the belly button area with clothes whenever possible. Should you have an infection, after keeping the skin of your belly button clean and dry (particularly with the post bathing methods of the cotton swab), apply antifungal powder/cream to a yeast infection or antibiotic ointment to a bacterial infection. I don't know about the smell of the infection, but I'm gonna guarantee you that the soap and/or medicine is not going to be freshy fresh from the start! It's gonna smell, and it's gonna smell bad! Also don't go relying on the medical treatment because there is always a chance of antifungal/antibiotic resistance. Kind of like AIDs, you know? I think we have enough pathogenic problems!

This should do it, but I could been wrong. Who knows?

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Sat Jul 03, 2021 9:08 pm
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Post Re: Coronavirus or not, I shaved my own head! Among other th
Because the milk in the food bank gives only a week or so for complete consumption upon access, I thought this as another idea, not a good idea, but one for a post. The freshness retention of packaged spacey milk is as good as the milk from the market. The food air drop supplies from the Eastern bloc must have a time limit too! I wonder how to preserve dairy products after opening its container?

Should you ever run out of unfreshed milk, I suggest to use the ice cream as a substitute. Note that it is not a healthy as the real thing. It's not just ice cream and cereal combined, it's like some ice shit, sugar, milk, some other shit, and cereal. Seriously, if you have some other shit mixed with the cream, take consideration of a slow slow cereal, or have that shit tear your insides from your insides.

Is ice cream healthy? I doubt it, you are basically eating ice and sugar. It's like a acidic powder or some shit like that. Sand and limestone, sand and limestone. Seriously, don't try it, especially as a daily breakfast habit. If you must, I suggest ice cream without embedded scraps, makes your breakfast easier to digest. Keep it light too (reduced calories), you know? There is no common supply of healthy ice cream. I just researched that Thrive^(copyright) ice cream and gelato (this type's heavy, can't say for mousse or mellorine though) might be a thing! Thrive is very expensive and very very small! I wouldn't use this as a milk alternative, at least for the long run. It's like EU thing, but it is in the US, but it is also regional in its services. Delivery of this product will not be convenient. There is also Perfect World^(copyright) ice cream, but it is situated in the UK and NL. The quantity per price seems to be better though. To sum it up, sadly, there is no ice cream that is designed as common breakfast milk just yet, make that common healthy breakfast milk just yet!

On a side note, milk poured on ice cream can slow down as some semi-frozen treat. Could I be on something? I dunno.

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Sun Aug 01, 2021 9:28 am
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Post Re: Coronavirus or not, I shaved my own head! Among other th
Man, I just heard some aftermath songs. It is not coronavirus related, but it's pretty damn close! Remember Escape from Los Angeles? Here are the (remakes of the) theme song)s)!

Escape from L.A. Metal guitar theme cover Snake Plissken Theme Escape from New York

Link


Escape From L.A. Soundtrack

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Thu Aug 19, 2021 9:32 pm
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Post Re: Coronavirus or not, I shaved my own head! Among other th
I have to mention again, but this time, with its specific topic, about Arknights being a de va ju! I dunno, but maybe, I suspect that storyline may inspired/contributed to the freaking/mad coronavirus machination. Ugh, I'm just feeling bad vibes! And I mean it could (or supposed to) have ww2 unit 731 undertones! Such negativity from a war drum mask! No need to hide, ya know!

If this assumption is true to some extent, then obviously, we need to be careful in regulating media broadcasting/dissemination.

Emergency Broadcasting System

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Thu Aug 26, 2021 11:24 pm
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Post Re: Coronavirus or not, I shaved my own head! Among other th
I wonder how your head is doing now

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Sun Sep 05, 2021 8:12 pm
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Post Re: Coronavirus or not, I shaved my own head! Among other th
It's not really neo-classic, or anything related to other music threads, but I thought I should put this one up in regards of the thematic elements.

LA CUMPARSITA - Tango's Most Famous Song ♫ ♫ ♫ ♫ ♫ ♫ ♫ ♫ ♫ ♫ ♫ ♫ ♫ ♫

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Thu Sep 09, 2021 5:33 am
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Post Re: Coronavirus or not, I shaved my own head! Among other th
Okay, so finally...ish, the Countermeasures against Rooftop Trespassing/Ambush advice post is coming about!

For most people, it's to stay inside and be safe. When there's a rooftop skidding and thumping, chances are that some drunk/drugged fuck is up there like some cryptozoology thing. Wonder what he be doing up there? Well, it's usually not good, considering a trespassing offense as occurred. The reasonable thing to do is to stay inside and be safe. However, if you do ever need to go outside afterwards, it's not a good combination of factors. The duration to lie in wait is based on conditions, not time. An ambush is setting up when and where you would least expect it. The predator is studying its prey, stalker style. Watch out, it's gonna be guerrilla gorilla jungle monkey time! Eventually, it's gonna be do or die, and it sucks. It's basically like public property, but oh so close to home!

Moving onwards from the flavour text, there are some things you can do to check out the place. Now, you may rather wait in the last moment, but it's quite the close call/draw to risk. Ever familiar with the "Stranger, stranger, danger, danger" motto? Yeah, that's it, danger. Except, where can you really run? Where can you really hide? Is there any means of retreat, regardless of given duty? I'm not saying to go at it 24/7 like a law of physics, but it's one of those things when you have to really think about the future and its possibilities. You must decide on when to do your own search because you wouldn't know if trespassing/ambush/vandalism/burglary has occur in past, present, or/and future tense. If you got the probable cause of something suspicious, the impulsive search might be the way to go on the abrupt scenario. It's dangerous, but you may mitigate the threat before it is too late. Planning is good, but there is more to defense against trespassing/ambush. Equipment is obviously a sufficient means of defense (especially for ambush [I'm not talking about a single person!]), a (right angle preferably) flashlight (worn by a key ring, but if it has a clip, use that) hung to a necklace ([you may want free hands when dealing with situations like these {I wouldn't utilize a arm light due to the possible factors of light being carried by an preoccupied arm, a small radius, performance resulting in dimness, depleting batteries, and its inferior qualities to induce a startle; a startle can cause a accidental discharge, you do not want to discharge without intention or you may get unintended consequences}]; a extra properly tied shoelace is enough [the reason why you would want such a length is that worn light around your head/neck would spell a invisible disaster if you shine upon a mirror, reflecting the blindness glare towards you; yes, it does get wobbly if you body swing/rotate around the weighted shoelace necklace, but hey, in those night/dark self-defense situations, there's a chance of wobble {true for shaky hands holding an arm with tactical light; that's a fucking giveaway}; at least the necklace wobble in practice can train your senses to tune in simultaneous transitional light and dark visibility simulations {try not to focus on the lens, but the glimpse, the show is not centered}; I can't say for fog, smoke, and mirror glare, but at least it's a start {as for seeing upwards, you can bend your back backwards or just use your hands to aim; in safe and stable conditions, place forearm under base and arm pit behind back of head of the flashlight hung to the necklace for stable elevated pitch aiming, almost like if the flashlight hung to the necklace is a tilted football ((you can probably aim both forearm and tilted flashlight before making a report!!!)); as for seeing downwards, you can crouch low enough to aim the flashlight hung to the necklace; it's not the perfect self-defense lighting solution, but at least it {in attempt} covers the unpredictability of wide angled/pitched light aiming]), a charged up cellphone, a worn full zipped (to organize held items) hooded sweatshirt (in case you do need the hood) ready to go (of course, this is for pocketing your phone and personals! Of course! [if time is of interruptive essence, you can even pocket your right angle flashlight, but it will lose its visual wobble angle field; stability in light vision for wide angle scan]), and of course, keen intuitive for situational awareness. Armour is give and take, it can block or fail. Failure can be from lack of density or even speed to dodge. It cannot completely cover a body.

Before stepping outside, to meet the confrontation, try to activate the switch of the lights outside. They will be your signals of clarity. With your flashlight lit, navigate and observe within the fields of the light's range. Make mental note of your situational knowledge. Try to avoid close range of corners and of course, dark areas. Avoidance should apply to obstacles obscuring your visible line of sight. Keep your distance (as it is the only thing protecting your person) from unseen areas until you have it visibly and safely inspected. The use of mirrors is welcome, but remember that it is a two way street of presence communication. If you can safely reach and activate more lights while outside, do it. The last thing you must do is to keep checkpoints of safety in known surroundings. If something is about to go, and you don't know what's next, at least you have a plan to fall back on. Yes, you can play peek a boo and hide n' seek ambushing in the dark, but this is a matter of trespassing, not burglary, not imminent danger, not immediate danger. Trespassing involves the near or adjacent interaction of both private and public properties. Besides, ambushes can happen in the dark, remember that. This is your main priority over any courtesy law. It's like going on snipe zone, with x>=1 versus 1, light or no light. Not even fucking faggot counterstrike can prepare you for that! How's that against the odds? And that's cordial for you!

You have to do all that fbi shit before reaching the rooftop. Before heading up top, assert control of your flashlight to ready scan of the roof. Here's the tricky one, at least one trespasser could be on the roof. I can't say if there's more in the same or different places. Treat the rooftop like navigating corners. Keep your distance, keep your watch on not just all visible roof slopes, but surroundings too. Your eyes would be ogling around. Should your flashlight shine upon an offender/suspect, you have the act in the clear. However, things could get very very hairy from there. Make sure that you're still safe. That means to ready to fall back when unknown variables come into play. If worst goes to shit, you would know to go jungle monkey! With caution, forearm and arm pit lock your flashlight aimed at offender/suspect, and make your report known. Make sure that you're still safe. Chances are that the offender/suspect will bolt for it, but do watch for any moves made against your person, be it by the seen offender/suspect or others that may appear after.
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In the case that you must venture deep into the darkness for search, especially with corners and obstacles obscuring line of sight in the dead of night (or dark), I must stress that you must not go near unseen areas. It is too risky for an unexpected ambush when you may least expect it. Surprises may come in more than one way. If you can, peruse a ladder to inspect by the height/rooftop. Of course, you must scan the roof for possible problems beforehand. If the height is somehow adjacent to the roof, you must be careful. When climbing the ladder, note that you temporarily lose your ability to run. You must prepare to engage combat by stationary position. If an offender/suspect makes a charge to topple the ladder, you are in risk of injury, and will be in disadvantage of the upcoming fight. I hope you know your camping, because it's a slow watch up! Once you have reached the height/rooftop, do inspect the elevated levels in case of a immediate/impending threat to approach you. Should it happen, prepare to fire upon the threat before it makes its fatal push/attack. Last thing you want is to be toppled off like King Kong. This is not a movie! With periodic checks on the elevations, also check that the ladder position is not tampered with. You don't want a ladder to move away, leaving you in a difficult time to climb down the descent. That predicament puts you in a vulnerable risk, due your temporary lack of physical ability to engage an charging ambush when you least expect it. If a threat agent does come along to disengage, especially with harmful intent, it is probably, or definitely nigh time to let loose a round! I know I'm delaying the conclusion, but it's better safe than sorry, right? After checks on the skies and ladder, shine the spotlight on the targeted dark area. Like the rooftop scenario, things can get hairy. You wouldn't know what to expect. Prepare to fight or take flight, but prepare to make conduct on the situation at hand. If the offender/suspect make a run (not attack, not sudden moves) for it, you may or may not legally make self defense. On the other hand, do watch for any moves made against the ladder! Any escalation of danger leading to the sitting duck stationary position is bad business. You might have to fire upon such harmful disruption to your safety. Otherwise, if safely possible, to attempt private arrest, call for assistance first (hopefully assistance can call emergency along with other patrol activities) before engaging apprehension. Keep your eyes about, you never know what they have in their sleeves. If you can compel, or impose, compel/impose the offender to lay stretched out on open area floor.
|
Oh yes, if it is a desperate situation, such as property taxes and state(s) of emergency, I say it would be a good idea to ready fire upon the offender/suspect. The coronavirus should be a considerable condition as a state of emergency. It is upping the fucking ante! If you must fire, fire (repeatably) as long it is safe to do so.

---

The roof, trees, and anything of ascended heights, could be a very dirty place. Dust and dirt particles may float down, particularly by the disturbance. A pink eye infection, caused by bacteria or irritation, may occur to involved parties. Thankfully, there's a way to resolve that visual health problem. For at least once per day, wash your hands clean and wipe each of your eyes with its own disinfecting wipe sheet. Let the disinfectant dry before opening the wiped down eye. The cleansing agent could be burning in sensation. If you got loose eye lashes and gunk, wipe it off with the clean areas of the sheet. After done wiping down, throw away the sheets and wash your hands clean. Leave the disinfectant coating on to do its lingering muscle work. It will take a while, but I'm pretty sure that the infection is clearing up judging from my personal experience. I guess I should put this in the medication topic that I made, but this remedy is initially for those specific situations and the like (it's not medicine intended/designed for that purpose anyways). High tense situation, am I right?

Reflecting back to the question, you might be asking why would a trespasser would use a rooftop? Well, it's not prowling on public property, away from public sight. Pretty good cover. I could probably think plenty of ways on how to utilize this potential. For now, I think I will close on this statement.

Oh, there's probably a related youtube video of a historical recording. No offense to either belligerents, I needed several examples regarding the countermeasures against rooftop trespassing/ambush.

WWII ARMY GROUND FORCES TRAINING FILM " HOW TO GET KILLED IN ONE EASY LESSON " 1943 85834

Link

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I'm gonna headbutt Covid.

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I don't know about headbutting. Headbutting is not a guarantee. Concussions can occur for both subject and object. Besides, coronavirus could be quite quite contagious. Just as a matter of precaution, as those bureaucratic health council says, try to keep your distance!

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it might be contagious, but you can't contract it from forehead contact as long as you wash afterwords!

Bring a wipe!

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***

I'm going to admit something, normally, you don't see shit like this. There's plenty of special interest groups willing to censor this type of information to the public. They might go out their way to eradicate any sense of private property right, no matter how the law forbids or interprets. I'm taking big risks just by putting this shit out, and I'm only doing this for the matter of anarchic convenience. Ain't it fair enough? Should be, should be!

***

Now that I have the surface alarms setup (most notably, the "K-II Enterprises" Vibration Pet Trainer/Alarm [Model Tattle Tale]), I have to tell a bit of flaws.

Vibration pet trainer trainer/alarm detection solely consists of only vibration. It would be good to have audio/sonic detection alarms, but maybe a silence threshold is too inconvenient? Once you activate this alarm, it sounds off by condition on instant timing. Initialization is good to go. That's all the good I can say. There's more to say!

Before we go on, I must inform you that this device is of course, a electronic device. Being a electronic device, the battery installation must be in the correct polarity diagram. That means to have the battery's polarity terminal ends to correctly align center with the devices polarity terminal ends counterpart. I don't see these devices marketed too often, so I expect some malfunctions. True to my dismay, I have witnessed a hangup in error, with occurrence at the most improper surface application. Hangup may happen upon a hit-or-miss probability with jangly bangle! I think that the hang up is more common with the increasing lack of surface structure. As for the alarm sound volume? Well, I must say it is quite high pitched and loud. It only last for about 2 ~ 3 seconds though.

To remedy this problem, requires a bit of knowing how to use the device properly. There isn't much I can say otherwise. I do believe that this alarm should work with different types of surfaces, detection sensitivity may need some work, and the detection radius range should be greater (if it is lacking). I also would like to see a longer sound duration. Volume is fairly okay where it's at. I do see possible deafness as a side effect to such implementation. I hope that this advice helps you, somehow...

Before we go anywhere with this dog toy thing, we have to address its effectiveness, right? First of all, the subject of detection primarily deals with surface. A bad surface is a bad choice. Simple enough. Secondly, the sound off is temporary, very temporary. It's fucking loud, but it's too fucking short. What we need is a workaround. Let us admit that the the "K-II Enterprises" Vibration Pet Trainer/Alarm (Model Tattle Tale) sucks to some degree. The beep is blasting loud, yet somewhat nonexistent in presence. The alarm noise lasts about a 2 ~ 3 seconds duration to set off any alert. We want loud, yet steady. Thankfully, this pet trainer alarm has some sense of vibration to work with. If we tilt the "Sabre Home Series" Door Handle Alarm (Model HS-DHA) to the side of pet alarm, it can act as the noise, while the pet act as the trigger. Make sure to have the pet to support the vibration, angle about 45 degrees (as maximum tolerance) should do it. If you cannot for some reason, prop up sideways by angle, place the vibration on top of the pet's speaker. Make sure the slide switches for both alarms face a secured direction. Set the pet to high mode (it doesn't vibrate upon detection on soft surfaces, it does not delays first before noise and vibration though, sorry), and vibration to alarm mode (it isn't as loud as one would think, but it could stack up the annoyance factor pretty quickly). We want to have the alarms at utmost ready steady first, not delayed. Then, we can worry about the volume.

The greatest potential of the alarm is obviously the old ass business advice, "location, location, location. After all, we must exploit its ranged potential, despite its weaknesses. Now, it is said to train pets, but what if there be no train pets? Surely, we can maximize its usage. Well, we can use this device on any surface area that requires "off limits" protocol. Note that it isn't resistant/immune to tampering or circumvention during active mode. So what about, the utmost important question of all, the floor, if not underground? Well, the floor designs weren't catered for security in the first place! It is made to function as a floor and ease of repair. Now, we're delving into murky territory, the mystery of earthly secrets! Kind of like the vietnam civil war, but it's just a recent famous iteration. The theme song "The Viscounts - Harlem Nocturne (cover [long version])" tunes in! If the floor can't pass as a consistent surface area (e.g. concrete, glass, marble, etc), then you're gonna need a substitute to get the ground up working. Heavy wobbling wooden boards (e.g. roof sheathing) will do as adjustable material, but it will need to be sawed down. Takes plenty of measuring (both floor and door space in all applied axis graph coordinates) with the measurement tape and a lot of saw work (I especially like the 45 pitch degrees, and then 90 pitch degrees; at least it looks like it got something done, especially if you're exhausted like hell [keep the planes aligned though!]). Adjust all cutouts to perpendicular for the most open area coverage. Yeah, mapping gets pretty tricky. Even then, you have to figure out layering work too. If you want (but it's not too secure), try to leave some vertical/horizontal space for the door. Make sure that the door can swing over the board. The horizontal space is for the low stack of nailed down wooden board cutouts (base could probably be a larger size dimension, the rest needs to be balanced as not to tip over [very important]) to deal with blocking as much door swings as possible. For door security, you have to make do with layering, possibly with tools. Even then, I suggest to deploy both door_bell/vibration and pet alarm to read the swings. Unless it's a adequate design made from concrete (or etc), I wouldn't deviate. After layering, hypothesize and test the pet and vibration combo on/with the specified corners/barricades for maximum detection potential. With three jobs at once after sawing, it gets pretty tricky, huh? Not to mention that you may risk suffering in a g☠s chamber scenario given the composite design. I'm not sure for how long so there's plenty of risks involved in this deep water. Yeah, you can paint it, but it will take time to get a flat and smooth surface. Plus, paint may eventually wear down given da foot abuse. At the very least, you can forget about the rummage (storage bins [maybe just lids alone], appliances, stool chairs, trays, etc) as (the main) floor barricade method (where inapplicable!!! [it may still have its supporting uses for certain conditions]) once you have made proper implementation of surface impediment/countermeasure. It may save on time.

~~~
More to come! HAHAHA! >:D

As for bedside, it gets tricky. This is something I don't usually cover, but I suppose there is a logical reason to reach this point of desperation. Anyways, let us move forward. Reasons for bedside rather than underneath the bed, is the matter of size dimensions and weight distribution. Even if you went through all this trouble, it is up to you to inspect this board for any tampering. Imagine dragging that board out every now and then? Burdensome, wouldn't it? Onwards to bedside measurement! I would prefer to only measure only the outer size dimensions of the bed border, but there are a few benefits along with shortcomings to look at. Thicker height, heavier weight, and wider width. Thicker height means more resistance for nails, however, the distance it covers will interfere with floor barricade material. Any sacrifice will potentially hamper on the scale and weight distribution countering against open floor trespassing/burglary. This is bad, this is something we don't want to happen! Heavier weight is a good thing for impediment, but it will never be on par as floor barricade material. Not to worry, because we do not need a heavy wooden board to do the job. Instead, we will nail down attached inner wooden boards for added weight. Do this afterwards (outside premise or probably with sheets to catch any wood debris) after your bedside barricade has been setup. Problem is solved! Wider width is good for covering the bedside outside hands down, however, the connecting inner cube block shaped corner piece might be too small to hold down the installed nails properly. The bed corner may interfere with room to work with. There is no solid L shaped block corner piece, at least, not of solid wooden material. I say, you might need a metal clamp (steel barred shelving brackets will do, but the nails/screws are something small... this the focus here) for this. Even then, the nails will stick out on the other side, maybe to penetrate and damage the bed? Therefore, I would go with measuring the underneath size dimensions of the bed border as well! Just got to take extra measures with shit complicated as this, no? So you take that measuring tape and measure up the length, width, and height of the bed (under)side. The side height should be around 5"1/2 minimum or 12" maximum (for alarm coverage). If you have the minimal side height higher than 5"1/2, you must have the higher classy bed frame. I can't say my rough (not refined) blueprint drafts can accommodate those frames. This is a security context, not a (true) comfort zone; it's gonna cost something, sorry. If you can't handle it just yet, you are gonna have to partake into the monastery self-flagellation trials. I can say no more. Back to measurements, the side length is about 76ish" (no worries, it's 1 chest width and double arms length estimate). You can say that the proposed length may lock with a headboard/footboard during a underside access protocol. Don't worry much about it, it's not much of a problem. You can simply lift only the specified end of the side length, in a skewed angle, given the proper underside access protocols. I'll post about it later once more in the following sequential lines. The foot height should be around 5"1/2 minimum or 12" maximum (for alarm coverage). If you have the minimal foot height higher than 5"1/2, you must have the higher classy bed frame. I can't say my rough (not refined) blueprint drafts can accommodate those frames. This is a security context, not a (true) comfort zone; it's gonna cost something, sorry. If you can't handle it just yet, you are gonna have to partake into the monastery self-flagellation trials. I can say no more. Back to measurements, the foot length is about 55"1/2ish". The corner piece's length is about 16"1/2, or as far as the current frame wheels permit. The board thickness is 1/2" estimate.

Okay, so the bulk of burden material used for this kind of shit, is shit. Seriously, they would be the roof sheathings of various sizes, some lumber (about three or four in quantity?) with the width of 5" and length of 16" (yes, you can request cutting to a more portable proportion [watch out, lumber could carry on a fucking scent so clear out the vehicle air afterwards and put the backup lumber in a safer place]), and some 10" spikes (four in quantity will do it [spikes? yes, they are fucking spikes, they not nails!!! You want to fasten these bulky materials tightly together, not loosely together]).

It's technically a easy mental exercise, but it could be physically exhausting in implementation. For sawing the sizes in a clean cut, I suggest to do a skew angle with eye on line precision. Of course, you will have to line out the measured size dimension, that is priority. Then, you can do a perpendicular angle. It's slow going, but it won't tire you out so easily. Plus, it would be a neat cut. You go hard and fast, but I hope the saw lines up well enough for you. Now, for nailing down, omg. Okay, this is where it can get pretty hard. Spikes are not exactly sharp, and the given angles may wear out the hammer. Saying this as a difficult and messy project is quite the understatement. Lining up parallel with lumber piece and side board, measure up 2"/4" in width, and 2"/4" in height. The spikes may be difficult/damaging on wood material and spike length is 10" deep, so make sure to alternate height between the side and foot board parts. If necessary, hammer down 3" nails on affected areas as an attempt on repairs. Nailing fixture is or will be required. They come in vise, wall, floor, inner corner, weight, and extra lumber/wood pieces. Okay, so you start nailing down piece by piece. That means to nail down a spike on a board at the point (in this case, it's 2" width and 2"/4" height). Then, with just the tip out, starting nailing down with the attached lumber piece. The foot board's adjacent piece is about 3" ~ 4" in thickness. That's where the 2" width start comes in handy. With the foot board's piece and aligned nailing fixture, nail up the side board's piece's spike to the foot board's piece's thickness. Basically, you are hammering down the foot piece onto the side piece spike. You must use extra lumber/wood pieces as cover to protect the foot piece from hammering damage. Then do the same parallel process for the foot board and its now cornered piece, and nail down the tip to the associated piece in the appropriate 2"/4" width/height. Okay, so now your side and foot board are connected by the corner piece (which is basically two lumber pieces). However, not all of the boards are parallel aligned to its adjacent lumber piece. Nail down another spike to the loose foot board and piece together in the appropriate 4" distance width and appropriate 2"/4" height. As of now, the bedside cover should be nailed down shut enough. The design is like the text below.

f
.__
|^ s
|

The ^ symbol represent the two spikes embedded through the foot board and piece. The spikes may be difficult/damaging on wood material and spike length is 10" deep, so make sure to alternate height between the side and foot board parts. If necessary, hammer down 3" nails on affected areas as an attempt on repairs.

We're basically done here, but you can double hammer down on the two exposed spike tips with another lumber piece's width. This one is the most difficult, use the nailing fixtures to help make developing measurements. A lumber piece or two along with a wall ought to do it. Nail down another spike to the loose side board and piece together in the appropriate 4" distance width and appropriate 2"/4" height. This time, you must align that middle piece with the side board's 4" width measurements. As of now, the bedside cover should be nailed down shut enough. The design is like the text below.

f
.__
|^ s
| _
|

You can finish off by nailing through the double hammered piece's thickness, but in the appropriate 4" width and 2"/4" height. Then, at last, there, you did it. You got your bedside cover.

My installation process period took about a agonizing 4 ~ 5 hour estimate work shift (maybe a few breaks and timeouts given the recovery, pollutants, and cleanup). And I wasn't even completely done yet! Your affect fingers will tremble from all that hard work and time! I even double handed hammer down on deeply embedded spikes! No one's perfect.

+-+-+
If you need to retrieve something from under the bed, be sure to flashlight first before retrieval. You can say that the proposed length may lock with a headboard/footboard during a underside access protocol. Don't worry much about it, it's not much of a problem. You can simply lift only the specified end of the side length, in a skewed angle, given the proper underside access protocols (pull the bedside cover from the side out, you can bend and tilt the angle and pitch of the specified end of the side length). Then lock out retrieved item should you need it under sensitive circumstances. Once safe use of locked out retrieved item is safely complete, flashlight under the bed first before returning the item back to its former place. Then you may lock in. This has been a public service message, reminding you and everyone for your audience. Thank you for reading this message.
+-+-+

Oh yes, pet with vibration alarm (I think you can still use on the most applicable floor barricade corner) and rummage (to serve as counterweight to assist in bedside barricading [storage bins {maybe just lids alone}, appliances, stool chairs, trays, etc]) still required, I wouldn't say that this bedside barricade project is true impediment. It is of a smaller scale, plus its weight is not so considerable. Treat it more as a detection deterrent, rather than a impediment deterrent.

If you can't do it? Well, you can always lie down a skewed row of stackable trays, with rummage on top and some light object ready to tilt down from the top of the rummage. If you got a storage bin, then use a tray's rod support to prop and lift up one side of the bin. A certain movement should grate the appropriate surface. It is best to place some light object ready to tilt down from the top of the bin as well! Remember that like the bedside barricade proposal, these methods are still considered detection deterrents. I guess so!
|
Wall closets is another story. True enough, the floor it occupies is quite spacious, yet inconvenient for any proper impediment measures to take place. The supplies and crap stored inside surely blocks, but are not designed that way in mind! Regrettably, floor impediment for wall closet areas is a lost cause. The material will be too reduced to serve its hindrance purpose. Rather, you would use the sliding locks to attempt locking down the wall closets. Still, an alarm would best be hanged on the most vulnerable locks as seen from the inside. Otherwise, the only detection option is to prop up a double rifle case with enough space for a pet alarm's width to insert itself between case and outer sliding wall closet door. The alarm must have its volume (top) side face towards your person, while the slide switch side face towards the case. The vibration alarm's front must face and tilt over the pet alarm's slide switch side. Have the pet alarm's slide switch side to face towards the case. Therefore, any attempt to disable the alarm would take great and incredible effort and time. Opening/touching adjacent sliding doors will trigger the alarm as well. The setup should be easy enough. This method is considered a detection deterrent so don't just turn a blind eye (or rather, deaf ear, or ignore any sensory perception). In closure of this text block, I hope that the combo holds up!

If you want to detect doors, put the combo 1/2 of back to spring door stop in testing, but do reset back cuz each repeated test will edge out the combo from range.
~~~

If wooden boards aren't your fancy, you can use other heavy wobbly similar/different material, but if it's too hard to be wobbly, you can't maximize the pet alarm potential. Yes, you can basically use concrete to finish the job once in for all, but you need the right chemicals and processes anyways. Filling up for a solid basement (or just filling up underground) can work, it will prevent entry most of the time. It's not guarantee over time! Plus, you never know when the unexpected happens. Best be prepared at the very least. That said, I don't think there is anymore alternatives, but I could be wrong!

We covered the where, but how about when? The best possible situation is obviously when being alerted to a unknown presence is required. A wakeup call is one example. Oh, and when I said about when, I meant when to use these devices. They can be quite annoying. They must be used in a manner when appropriate. Actually, given its limited output, there is limited use for this device. Its shape is pretty weird, but allows detection of surface vibration so it's a give and take, somewhat. Its sound off goes out in a bang, only to shut down soon afterwards. Other than pet training, you can't have any other possible unattended use for it. What's left is authorization of possible imminent physical contact. Overall, a pet training alarm, one with vibration detection, is primarily good for good surfaces, especially good ready (stable may or may not) surfaces. For sure, they will never best a frame lock; instead, they are supposed to give you a time gap for awareness and preparation. Now, alarms aren't the best security, nor defense, but they can sure detect for what's up ahead, or at least opposite of the door. Well, they do provide some makeshift means of deterrence against roof and floor intrusions. Those incidents don't happen too often, but it sure is quite weird and unrealistic! If you ever get to this point, the situation, if not the acting trespasser(s)/burglar(s), are in a state/matter of desperation. If you get the chance, do it before it's too late. Fair's fair. Oh, be sure to check behind your shower/bathtub curtain FIRST per water closest visit (seriously, this is the most at-risk ambush coverage to look out for; the curtain greatly obscures view, but also provides ease of movement; behind the curtain, an attacker can engage your person without warning or retrieve your arm without warning; it is urgent that you must ready and retain control of your arm before navigating the curtain for inspection of possible danger [you may keep the curtain half open for ease of view; if you ever see a unexpected fully closed curtain, prepare thyself, place all held items on floor and ready arm before investigation]), rooms (don't forget the cabinets [place your cereal box in a kitchen cabinet after eating; bring it out before eating; for memory labelling reference to help you remember to check the kitchen cabinets too, you don't want to subconsciously walk back and forth, pacing, worrying about a possible cabinet ambush when you least expect it; it's exaggerating, I know, but maybe not!] and the [wall] closets [keep your distance when opening room/cabinet/closest door]) daily (optimally in morning [morning alone is good enough] and night), frame locks weekly, and inside and outside the roof periodically. Sometimes, there are attempts; some might be even just partially successful. It's best to stay on the safe side. And checking the roof might prevent a rained in disaster. Sometimes, I wonder if there is a long range static electricity detection alarm that could be of use? It would definitely cover quite the area! I just need to hide it with the best scan radius location.

***

I'm going to admit something, normally, you don't see shit like this. There's plenty of special interest groups willing to censor this type of information to the public. They might go out their way to eradicate any sense of private property right, no matter how the law forbids or interprets. I'm taking big risks just by putting this shit out, and I'm only doing this for the matter of anarchic convenience. Ain't it fair enough? Should be, should be!

***

---

I will add the post context/content to the correct coronavirus prepping subtopic. It's not really direct defense, but its detection sure supplement it significantly!

As for direct defense, yeah, surely a firearm will do its job. However, handling the weapon can be quite the hassle, especially in the dark. You can't light up the room because you would either be out of reach of your weapon, or the burglar/robber/intruder would have a focused awareness of possible defense. While light might give you a clearer picture, it is a double-edged sword, giving the burglar/robber/intruder a clearer picture. Don't expect the threat agent to run away, there's too many factors and conditions to assume a conclusion! If you are going to handle a long gun, it can be difficult to handle on the grips, requiring some memory cache stored in mind. You can't just focus on weapon retrieval and handling by memory alone in this situation. To counter long range theft, you can place it near the pillow, throw over a bed blanket, throw over some nonallergic weight (another lock box?) over its end and touching the wall. By hypothesis, assuming that nothing could go wrong, the method should work as foolproof. Even then, there are other practices yet to be mastered. This post isn't a training lesson plan as it's a very dynamic set of scenarios. Instead, I would at least suggest to go for glow-in-the-dark shaftment/finger(_pockets) palm line(s)/dot(s)/area (measurements: up to trigger area and not extended way down) cuts on handle/fore/back grips. The cuts need to be apparent, yet small enough to be concealed by equipping hand. We don't want the glow to give away the defender's location, right? That would be self-endangerment! Such cuts can work on handguns as well.

_________________
_
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IoFD-c740Y0, Must be the_washington_times/moonie anthem
link <- this as well!
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:ChoSh.jpg, resident alien generation? Wow!
_
Regurgitator monster to be resumed
whatissk/moonie/washingtontimes=anti-armistice nazi instigator-usurper/tyherantno parasite/censorship/anti-neutrality embargo/siege fallen cheonson-ilminismist/ilminazmist/merciless 'they live' mein kampf machine/kal_flight_007 self-victimization
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Sat Oct 23, 2021 3:56 pm
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Post Re: Coronavirus or not, I shaved my own head! Among other th
At the moment, I am researching microwave motion sensor alarms. These USUALLY require wires, which can be circumvented. Electric source can be blacked out so you might need some backup. Even then, the thing is that for most determined aggressive burglaries, the wires can be accessed by entering unoccupied areas. It will then be ineffective.

However, if you do go for a DSC PowerG Wireless Dual Technology (Mirror Optic & Microwave) PIR Motion Detector, Model PG9984P, then I must say that it could be a good bet. The power supply is a CR123, and it will cost you something. I doubt there are rechargeable versions. If I ever get this product, I'll test if it could be effective within a container, see if it can see through the material. Microwave sensors are said to see through doors and walls! Even floors! Maybe even ceilings too! I think this is the start to find a solution for under/over the floor/surface detection. In fact, other than the proper locks, this alarm would probably be the only thing missing for home security.

Still, as times are a changing, I'll look around for more (coronavirus) pandemic security, safety, and health related issues.

_________________
_
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IoFD-c740Y0, Must be the_washington_times/moonie anthem
link <- this as well!
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:ChoSh.jpg, resident alien generation? Wow!
_
Regurgitator monster to be resumed
whatissk/moonie/washingtontimes=anti-armistice nazi instigator-usurper/tyherantno parasite/censorship/anti-neutrality embargo/siege fallen cheonson-ilminismist/ilminazmist/merciless 'they live' mein kampf machine/kal_flight_007 self-victimization
nsfw
Spoiler: show
Fraud Alert Renewal Month: 03, 06, 09, and 12
My ZDoom mods
Viva Le Resistance! (threat: see ☠Image☠ below...)
Metal tracking mods
sfw
Spoiler: show
https://archive.org/download/for_jihad_monsters/Lightning%20Exclusive%20Nasheed%20By%20Ahmad%20Al-Muqit.mp3


Sun Dec 05, 2021 4:58 pm
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Post Re: Coronavirus or not, I shaved my own head! Among other th
Oh, woe is me! Turns out that this mw sensor thingie did detect quite quite sharply. However, it isn't really all up on the wave spectrum. So maybe it isn't the satellite mapping technology either. Still, it's quite sharp. Another problem is the indication. It is just a bunch of traffic lights. No speaker whatsoever. Okay? Also, there needs to be some control panel and motherboard to lock with the sensor devices. It gets very very expensive! That was the last straw, given the fact of its inconvenience and maintenance costs.

I actually wouldn't mind the lack of radioactive sensor detection. Just the fact that it's sharp and another type of detection method is good enough. Because it's a sensor than an alarm, it's another set of disappointment. I'm so disappointed! Then, the interface devices had to come in as the substitute solution to noise based indication and other functions.

_________________
_
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IoFD-c740Y0, Must be the_washington_times/moonie anthem
link <- this as well!
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:ChoSh.jpg, resident alien generation? Wow!
_
Regurgitator monster to be resumed
whatissk/moonie/washingtontimes=anti-armistice nazi instigator-usurper/tyherantno parasite/censorship/anti-neutrality embargo/siege fallen cheonson-ilminismist/ilminazmist/merciless 'they live' mein kampf machine/kal_flight_007 self-victimization
nsfw
Spoiler: show
Fraud Alert Renewal Month: 03, 06, 09, and 12
My ZDoom mods
Viva Le Resistance! (threat: see ☠Image☠ below...)
Metal tracking mods
sfw
Spoiler: show
https://archive.org/download/for_jihad_monsters/Lightning%20Exclusive%20Nasheed%20By%20Ahmad%20Al-Muqit.mp3


Thu Dec 09, 2021 12:37 am
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