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 Coronavirus or not, I shaved my own head! Among other things 
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Post Re: Coronavirus or not, I shaved my own head! Among other th
Ah, so the fucking long haul of shit is to come!

We are talking about cabin fever, agoraphobia, piblokto, prairie madness, desolation, and castaways, making a comback! Good ole times!

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IoFD-c740Y0, Must be the_washington_times/moonie anthem
link <- this as well!
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:ChoSh.jpg, resident alien generation? Wow!
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Regurgitator monster to be resumed
whatissk/moonie/washingtontimes=anti-armistice nazi instigator-usurper/tyherantno parasite/censorship/anti-neutrality embargo/siege fallen cheonson-ilminismist/ilminazmist/merciless 'they live' mein kampf machine/kal_flight_007 self-victimization
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Sun Nov 29, 2020 11:23 pm
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Post Re: Coronavirus or not, I shaved my own head! Among other th
And so be it, let the pieces fall into place. Let fate decide how the world shall end.

This may be an end of the world scenario out of many end of the world scenarios. It cannot be stopped, it shall not be stopped. It is inevitable. It is decided by fate.

---

Oh yes, and maybe some advice in advance for preppers. It's okay to prep, but knowledge and skills are a scratch to survival basics. Still, the need to wander and forage for opportunity and misfortune, is always a need.

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IoFD-c740Y0, Must be the_washington_times/moonie anthem
link <- this as well!
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:ChoSh.jpg, resident alien generation? Wow!
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Regurgitator monster to be resumed
whatissk/moonie/washingtontimes=anti-armistice nazi instigator-usurper/tyherantno parasite/censorship/anti-neutrality embargo/siege fallen cheonson-ilminismist/ilminazmist/merciless 'they live' mein kampf machine/kal_flight_007 self-victimization
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Tue Dec 01, 2020 12:52 am
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Post Re: Coronavirus or not, I shaved my own head! Among other th
I wonder if the coronavirus was ever called the 'cockavirus'. Lots of cocks! lol

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IoFD-c740Y0, Must be the_washington_times/moonie anthem
link <- this as well!
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:ChoSh.jpg, resident alien generation? Wow!
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Regurgitator monster to be resumed
whatissk/moonie/washingtontimes=anti-armistice nazi instigator-usurper/tyherantno parasite/censorship/anti-neutrality embargo/siege fallen cheonson-ilminismist/ilminazmist/merciless 'they live' mein kampf machine/kal_flight_007 self-victimization
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Fri Dec 11, 2020 7:16 pm
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Post Re: Coronavirus or not, I shaved my own head! Among other th
Alright bois! You knows of those home invasion (and not really the riots) things that crops up! And don't listen to the deceptive pretense covers/fronts. That's how they keep on going at it! Keep on gunnin'!

Oh, and if you need an example on these methods where they put up a ruse like a trojan horse or a getaway plan, this video below explicitly illustrates the false narratives.

The PC Police (aka The Political Correctness Police)

Link

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IoFD-c740Y0, Must be the_washington_times/moonie anthem
link <- this as well!
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:ChoSh.jpg, resident alien generation? Wow!
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Regurgitator monster to be resumed
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Tue Jan 05, 2021 10:51 pm
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Post Re: Coronavirus or not, I shaved my own head! Among other th
As much I attempt to keep it civil and atheist, I must recognize a possible Dark Ages scenario. As the opening topic title states, coronavirus or not, things are going down under regardless. I'm not going to say that there is a matter of desperation in world wars per se, but as a pressing matter of upheaval.

I know the panic is quite redundant, but if you call me crazy, well, for sure, I am just late to say it! As much as I would like to state an public speech and all that, the struggle emanates from all forms of life. It is fair as unfair as fair.

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IoFD-c740Y0, Must be the_washington_times/moonie anthem
link <- this as well!
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:ChoSh.jpg, resident alien generation? Wow!
_
Regurgitator monster to be resumed
whatissk/moonie/washingtontimes=anti-armistice nazi instigator-usurper/tyherantno parasite/censorship/anti-neutrality embargo/siege fallen cheonson-ilminismist/ilminazmist/merciless 'they live' mein kampf machine/kal_flight_007 self-victimization
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Mon Jan 11, 2021 12:30 am
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Post Re: Coronavirus or not, I shaved my own head! Among other th
In terms of chaos, I have to say that to keep watch of being surrounded. Whoever they be, just make sure that you don't get surrounded by a probability of a bad outcome.

Oh, nvm, I said this before. Well, here's something new.

Should you ever meet stupid aggressive people, sometimes, you have to consider the matter of drug influence. I personally don't know (nor familiarize) what goes on in the minds of drug addicts. It's like the video below.

PCP!

Link

It's like that. If you ever meet someone drunk/high/etc with a gun, engaging against the police, you can be sure that suspect is in risk of getting cop shot. For sure, the act is quite dangerous.

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IoFD-c740Y0, Must be the_washington_times/moonie anthem
link <- this as well!
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:ChoSh.jpg, resident alien generation? Wow!
_
Regurgitator monster to be resumed
whatissk/moonie/washingtontimes=anti-armistice nazi instigator-usurper/tyherantno parasite/censorship/anti-neutrality embargo/siege fallen cheonson-ilminismist/ilminazmist/merciless 'they live' mein kampf machine/kal_flight_007 self-victimization
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Fraud Alert Renewal Month: 03, 06, 09, and 12
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https://archive.org/download/for_jihad_monsters/Lightning%20Exclusive%20Nasheed%20By%20Ahmad%20Al-Muqit.mp3


Wed Jan 13, 2021 10:40 pm
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Post Re: Coronavirus or not, I shaved my own head! Among other th
Damn, I heard some helicopter chase going on. It's usually not safe to be outside, lest you run into some drug induced suspect!

Usually, it's supposed to be routine, but I'm getting the feeling that maybe, this super recession is going all crime high. What are the fucking chances? Shit!

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IoFD-c740Y0, Must be the_washington_times/moonie anthem
link <- this as well!
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:ChoSh.jpg, resident alien generation? Wow!
_
Regurgitator monster to be resumed
whatissk/moonie/washingtontimes=anti-armistice nazi instigator-usurper/tyherantno parasite/censorship/anti-neutrality embargo/siege fallen cheonson-ilminismist/ilminazmist/merciless 'they live' mein kampf machine/kal_flight_007 self-victimization
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Fraud Alert Renewal Month: 03, 06, 09, and 12
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https://archive.org/download/for_jihad_monsters/Lightning%20Exclusive%20Nasheed%20By%20Ahmad%20Al-Muqit.mp3


Wed Feb 03, 2021 12:11 am
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Post Re: Coronavirus or not, I shaved my own head! Among other th
I see Hanson hasn’t changed in over a decade.
I see Hanson hasn’t changed in over a decade.
I see Hanson hasn’t changed in over a decade.
I see Hanson hasn’t changed in over a decade.
I see Hanson hasn’t changed in over a decade.
I see Hanson hasn’t changed in over a decade.
I see Hanson hasn’t changed in over a decade.
I see Hanson hasn’t changed in over a decade.
I see Hanson hasn’t changed in over a decade.
I see Hanson hasn’t changed in over a decade.
I see Hanson hasn’t changed in over a decade.
I see Hanson hasn’t changed in over a decade.
I see Hanson hasn’t changed in over a decade.
I see Hanson hasn’t changed in over a decade.
I see Hanson hasn’t changed in over a decade.
I see Hanson hasn’t changed in over a decade.
I see Hanson hasn’t changed in over a decade.
I see Hanson hasn’t changed in over a decade.
I see Hanson hasn’t changed in over a decade.
I see Hanson hasn’t changed in over a decade.
I see Hanson hasn’t changed in over a decade.
I see Hanson hasn’t changed in over a decade.

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Fri Feb 05, 2021 11:56 am
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Post Re: Coronavirus or not, I shaved my own head! Among other th
I made an update regarding barricades.

Anyways, I thought about a hypothesis. A supplement to entry security if you will. Since car have alarms if there was a attempted break-in, why not install some door alarm system (steel material plz) on internal door locks/handles (note that the system does not have to be on handles alone)? So if someone decided to pick the lock, they may risk activating the door alarm. Whether it's the turn of the lock/handle/switch, the turned lever or pulled chain attached to grip, will activate the sound alarm.

Now what sound it will make I have no idea. It has to spell loud, constant, and distressing enough to equal a car alarm. It's going to be like a car alarm, but inside the fucking house! Now, it's not real hardcore hardware, but it does serve its purpose as a detection unit (rechargeable battery), no matter how small the contribution. At least, you would be alerted and get into gear! To be recorded with experiments.

---

I'm telling president biden about this to add on his resume and give him something to do. Well, only if it is not in existence or something lacking.

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IoFD-c740Y0, Must be the_washington_times/moonie anthem
link <- this as well!
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:ChoSh.jpg, resident alien generation? Wow!
_
Regurgitator monster to be resumed
whatissk/moonie/washingtontimes=anti-armistice nazi instigator-usurper/tyherantno parasite/censorship/anti-neutrality embargo/siege fallen cheonson-ilminismist/ilminazmist/merciless 'they live' mein kampf machine/kal_flight_007 self-victimization
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Fraud Alert Renewal Month: 03, 06, 09, and 12
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https://archive.org/download/for_jihad_monsters/Lightning%20Exclusive%20Nasheed%20By%20Ahmad%20Al-Muqit.mp3


Fri Mar 05, 2021 8:45 pm
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Post Re: Coronavirus or not, I shaved my own head! Among other th
Okay, back to the real deal.

These door handle alarms, can be skittish in terms of performance so I wouldn't know who's who.

Regardless, it's a electronic thing, a bit up above the low tech bar. I would require the use of batteries! Despite of all the portable phone device charging, batteries still have a place in this friggin wurld.

As of now, I'm looking for the best possible battery charger. It's too bad that there's no solar option, but I guess it's best to hide the utmost valuable electronic? I'm also looking for the best possible batteries, possibly of various sizes. You know I'm looking into performance!

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IoFD-c740Y0, Must be the_washington_times/moonie anthem
link <- this as well!
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:ChoSh.jpg, resident alien generation? Wow!
_
Regurgitator monster to be resumed
whatissk/moonie/washingtontimes=anti-armistice nazi instigator-usurper/tyherantno parasite/censorship/anti-neutrality embargo/siege fallen cheonson-ilminismist/ilminazmist/merciless 'they live' mein kampf machine/kal_flight_007 self-victimization
nsfw
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Fraud Alert Renewal Month: 03, 06, 09, and 12
My ZDoom mods
Viva Le Resistance! (threat: see ☠Image☠ below...)
Metal tracking mods
sfw
Spoiler: show
https://archive.org/download/for_jihad_monsters/Lightning%20Exclusive%20Nasheed%20By%20Ahmad%20Al-Muqit.mp3


Mon Mar 08, 2021 9:43 pm
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Post Re: Coronavirus or not, I shaved my own head! Among other th
Now that I have the door handle alarms setup (most notably, the "Sabre Home Series" Door Handle Alarm [Model HS-DHA]), I have to tell a bit of flaws.

Door handle alarm detection consists of either both vibration and/or static electricity. Vibration is obviously vibration, while static electricity is obviously static electricity. If you try to hand it while in static mode, you sound off the freaking alarm! Even (thinly veiled) rubber gloves cannot separate static electricity! Hey, they can magnetically stick to the hand without (bio-)chemical adhesion.

Before we go on, I must inform you that this device is of course, a electronic device. Being a electronic device, the battery installation must be in the correct polarity diagram. That means to have the battery's polarity terminal ends to correctly align center with the devices polarity terminal ends counterpart. I don't see these devices marketed too often, so I expect some malfunctions. True to my dismay, I have witnessed a hang in error, with a periodic beeping/clicking/both sound. Something got hanged! I think that the hang up is more common with the highest sensitivity mode.

To remedy this problem, I need to apply enough electro charges to the metal bar. That solution would be your handy dandy hair dry! Looks like fashion is useful after all! Of course, cupping over the speaker may help in retaining enough heat to generate temperature rise. The first thing you do, is to set off the alarm. The second is obviously to heat up the bar; you may cover the speaker with your palm, if you feel as necessary. Your (sensitive) alarm should be ready to go after a bit, or while, of heating. I hope that this advice helps you, somehow...

The greatest potential of the alarm is obviously the old ass business advice, "location, location, location. Now, it is said to be a door handle, but what if there be no touching the handle? What if you wanted to let in a little open door? Well, there's always the bar hanging on door hinge screws, the first alternative. I say that you have more coverage (and insurance) for your little alarm. The burglar would have to keep on swinging the door, but he would then be a robber, or even worse, a murderer. Plus, the bar might slip off the screw, dropping the alarm with product warranty causalities. There's got to be a better way! The second alternative is placing a dumbbell parallel to the door, the alarm as lever between dumbbell and door, alarm's front parallel to the door, with bar to fall/swing to the center of a dumbbell end (bar must point towards the door handle); on the floor, face up, with bar facing the position to be at 50% ~ 75% away from the door handle (or at least where the % hits the bar [even when the door is being upheld]) of the swinging door's front end. Make sure that the bar is pushed from the direct underneath of the door (this method can be circumvented by a close shave). A little push will certainly cause a scrape, activating the alarm via vibration. Make sure that both the dumbbell and alarm is in contact with the door. Any vibration set off by door or attempt to push off dumbbell, will sound off the alarm. In addition, the vibration alarm may also work for floor burglary as well as door entry. Just for good measure, place a pet alarm nearby (maximum distance about 60 inches [I would go with about 36 inches], but it is best to be also within close proximity to your person) the vibration/combo, with the detection mode settings to high. However, there could be a chance to bypass so we need the right measurements for the intended/desired effect to take place. For any area not scanned by the motion detector alarm (details mentioned in another post), it may be where pretty good intelligent floor burglary/invasion happens. We must cover this area for good measure. Study the layout of the floor design. Figure out how the boards may pry out. Then, by diagonal angle, place heater(s),storage bins, and other appliances/containers of considerable weight, to overlap possibly entry points. That means to have the weights to intersect onto possible board entries. Have the much heavier weights nearer the alarm. Next, if small enough distance applies, balance a chair_stool/tray (vertical/horizontal) on a small enough distance between rummaged appliances/containers. Make sure all the rummage is connected in a chain by the balanced chair_stools/trays (vertical/horizontal). If you want, but is preferable, place some (cylinder) containers on and between the chair_stools/trays. That way, you can counter any easy reach by close proximity. Call this a sense of balance, give and take. However, that's not enough. The vibration alarm may not trigger enough to provide alert notice. It might be too slow and the switch can be accessible for disablement. In that case, to stall such interruptions, a (plastic) stackable paper tray (or rather, just a very very large storage bin lid [its length should estimate to a door's width]) will be placed over the alarm. It is preferable to lay the tray on the door. I am not sure if the bottom supporting foundation should be floor or weight. Not sure, it's going to take a while. Have the vibration to alarm mode (it isn't as loud as one would think, but it could stack up the annoyance factor pretty quickly). The third alternative is to combine the usage of a deployed modified surface bolt as mentioned for the Barricades? post. While most modified surface bolt can be secured given enough time, sometimes, we must open the door at the most opportune moment. Thus, we have what you would call a shut surface bolt to the latch. If given enough tool modification, one can open a shut surface bolt from the other side of the door. Even the standard design of the door handle alarm can probably be circumvented. Unfortunately, such an (desperate, but real, considering the [coronavirus-based] recession/depression conditions) scenario could happen at anytime. That just means that we would need to utilize the door handle alarm more stringently, like a every time for room occupancy. With the surface bolt shut, place the door alarm upsidedown on top of the door handle's cylinder. Its bar should wrap around the knob of the shut surface bolt. Rotate the door handle alarm's skew angle position so it be coordinate adjacency balance between surface bolt and door handle. This combo should make tooling circumvention of both surface bolt and door handle alarm much more difficult to achieve. That's all for doors now, moving on. Most likely, you would want to face the alarm help safeguard your personals (the motive of home invasion is usually theft, if not escalating to some violent situation), but do leave them in a enclosed furniture such as locked drawer box of file cabinet. It is better with heavy load so access would be as squeaking and grating as possible. If possible, the container should have its own vibration alarm. The bar should touch both front and side surfaces of a container drawer. Make sure it fits, but can still rattle! You want this to detect vibrations, not sit still. To max the detection level, you can add in more prop support with a pet alarm (uses mentioned in its own respective post). The combo differs in that you must prop the door alarm standing up, with its face facing the side surface of the container drawer. The bar should still touch both front and side surfaces of a container drawer. Make sure that the pet alarm's tip touch the front surface of the container drawer. Have its speaker top side (specifically the back corner area) to prop the back of the door alarm and touch the vibration's bar, especially that! Make sure that the pet's position is somehow sufficiently secured. For extra measure, place a piece (like a small rubik's cube size) on the back side of the pet alarm. If skew angle prop position is not your style, you can go for vertical right/90 degrees angle. The next sentence will be damn mandatory regardless of its argument as the better method of the two. The security of the combo's position is also dependant on the heavy load of the enclosed furniture drawer box locked file cabinet drawer box. If you happened to find yourself upon a clean up mishap, leaving the load lighter than usual, you need to put on a dumbbell (or multiples due to its small size as capability of storage fitting [important factor as well] within the space of the drawer box) of considerable weight in the drawer box. Place the dumbbell's handle parallel and adjacent to the drawer box's internal side that is above the file cabinet's lock. This shift in balance of the drawer box will adjust its see-saw motion to cause surface friction with file cabinet's lock lever. The simultaneous frictive interaction between box and lever will cause enough vibration to activate the combo. Upon activation, the alarms should both hit it off, one for pitch frequency and the other for audio duration. Activation should occur on the triggers of locking and unlocking the lock, even if you happened to manipulate the drawer box face hosting the lock in a bypass attempt. However, you can test the unlocking procedure. Just try to slightly turn the lock open. If you meet friction resistance, then the weight is doing its job in current position per se. Of course, you can manipulate first and try turning. The result should turn out the same due to additional pressue being exerted plus the grinding of the lock mechanism in action. I could also be wrong, the test with the lesser friction is a hard sell in stopping short before the friction trigger or bypassing after the friction trigger. I'm not sure how sensitive the combo is outside the container, but it does detect certain ranges of vibration. As good as this method sounds as sound, detection is only good as its variables and parameters. We want to have the alarms at utmost ready steady first, not delayed. Then, we can worry about the volume. You got to utilize all while you can! That's all for now. Since you would have actually make a sufficient vibration detector alarm system, maybe it's time to lock down on the supplies. We wouldn't know who be determined/angry enough to change the course of events. Remotes, batteries, chargers, and maybe extra alarm devices, need to be wrapped up in plastic wrap, and locked in a very big lock box (cable lock required to chain onto something sturdy and/or resilient enough), file cabinet, or/and safe. Note that the use of weights and alarms is still more of a detection method, rather than a true impediment method. Door/floor based impediment attempts will be rambled on in its own post, since it requires a special set of expertise. If you don't use the alarm, you will be depending on squeak audio variation, depending on potentially disabled weight. You can still rely on the door squeak without weight, but open entry is dependent on one's foot length (opposite side of door angle must be lower [half is a educated guess] than one's foot length). In the case that the alarm placed between the dumbbell and door being a difficult balancing problem (may incur by error, some wind, some physical/electric movement caused by you, or even, *gasps* trespasser-burglars on top of the roof or underneath the floor! :o ), you may try another different method. This method still includes the dumbbell. I think this method is the best for the most stable and sensitive of door handle triggering (with exception of wind and things that may bump during the night). STILL, THE SECOND ALTERNATIVE IS THE BEST FOR THE MOST SENSITIVE OF VIBRATION/ELECTROMAGNETIC DETECTION!!! The third alternative is to have a plastic clothes hanger (spine required) head hang over the specified door. Have the lowered shoulder rest against the door hinge, opposite side from the door. Close the door enough to hold the hanger's head and spine onto the respective adjacent door (hinge) position. To lock both hanger and door in position, place the dumbbell parallel to the door with position at 50% ~ 75% away from the door handle of the swinging door's front end. Make sure that the dumbbell is in contact with the door. Now, with a second hanger, but with notches on top of the shoulder, place its head over the first hanger's corner adjacent to the door hinge. Have one of the second hanger's side end to rest on the wall. If there is no wall to use, you can skip the previous step. I believe that this method will still work. As for the second hanger's side end closest to the door handle, hang the activated alarm onto the notch on top of its shoulder. If you got it right, the dumbbell should be locking the held position of both hangers and door in place. Any deviation, regardless of push or pull, will set off the held swing momentum of the weighted hangers. With enough hanger collision, they are bound to cause enough vibration to sound off the hanged alarm. Should you be done with the method, put away all equipment back to their respective normal routines. Such a discovery of the deployed method may provoke a need and tendency of sabotage. We wouldn't want any trespasser-burglars to suspect such a trap now, do we? Discipline in all manners against trespassing and burglary is to be expected. No trespasser nor burglar would miss out on the ripe opportunity should they find it. Preparation is not enough, it can only do so much against the ever changing nature of intel! Remember, knowing is half the battle! Or at least part of it! Reference to Sgt. Barry Saddler - Ballad of the Green Beret? Maybe, maybe not. Despite noise, it would not be the best of interactions. Of course, it could be of ease to deactivate the alarm. Of course, the more alarms to improve detection and alertness, the better. Just don't go all out with the sirens due to its potential of auditory/mental damage. It's all poison so take your pick. Yeah, that's great and all, but that's like internal security, through internal detection. Yeah, I know. It's just that with these alarms, its design is intended for locked doors, especially for those of external contact with the environment. Note that these alarms may or may not work well with sliding door handles! This is true for non-metal material (in a situation where your handle is some broken ass shit), plus I think that a fucking hand would quickly disarm the sound once a break-in (especially of a hot prowl burglary) is successful. Well, you can lock the fucking sliding door, but the lock is like freaking small and it could pick/break easier and faster. If you make use of the lock, make sure you do get authorized copies for authorized personnel. Tested a bit with some (thinly veiled) rubber gloves on the opposite side of the door handle with hanged alarm device. Otherwise, there is a possible chance that constrained held opening will be discreet enough to open wide the sliding door. The static detection range is about 8" ~ 16" inches, body-wise. That's not much leverage. The only good thing about an alarm hanged around a external door handle, is its ability to detect vibration and static electricity affecting the door frame. That means anything shaking/fuzzing up the frame will sound the freakin' alarm. It could get quite annoying with plenty of false positives. Will solely rely on a lock to prevent/delay a quick reset. Your second best bet would be the bar leaning on the outward corner of the sliding door's back end, near the frame. That way, the push would grate the bar for some vibration or electrostatic sensation. Of course, the other better way to prevent easy unauthorized reset (due to its potential lack in ease of access), would be hidden ranged motion sensor alarms.

We covered the where, but how about when? The best possible situation is obviously when being alerted to a unknown presence is required. A wakeup call is one example. Being focused on work, bath, and sleep, but need some safety measure, is another. I suggest to activate the alarm mode of the contact detectors for these situations. They are, after all, the most immediate in both detection and alert. You MUST use the proper alarm when not carrying your personals (THAT MEANS TO CARRY YOUR BELONGINGS WITH YOUR PERSON UNTIL YOU DEPLOY THE PROPER ALARM TO HELP YOU GUARD THEM!!! [vehicle remotes are considered personals so before deploying alarm, wrap them in plastic wrap {in order to protect against potential humidity} before sealing it with a case/pouch]), but stay near enough to hear the alarm situated with your belongings within the occupied room (e.g. only you and only your belongings in that room; during bath time, personals, with alarm tilting over them, at back of the bath cabinet's drawer box [the large one or the one with the heaviest load to squeak on]; note that the alarm should be alerting you on your person of imminent danger as first priority, but since it don't do too well during bath time, at least it could alert you on your personals of imminent trespass to chattels; there's also details for toilet situations, but more on that a few sentences later); do arm yourself with defense (probably best with alarm mode, probably, but inconvenient) should the case of the unexpected arise. NEWS FLASH!!! Should you ever need to go to the restroom, it is best, as a precaution, to ALWAYS take your belongings with you to the restroom. I don't care if it is just peeing or pooping. Or that there is an interference with a dress code. A time away is an opportunity for the magical disappearing act to happen! When unable to carry on your person, practice the drawer box storage technique. No, you do not need to bring the (door handle) alarm if you are peeing or pooping (and sensory detection able). Should you need to use the alarm while you are away, you will be relying on other occupants to hone in on the alert. For open door scenarios, try dragging the bar, with your person on the opposite side of the door, to 50% away from the door handle (or at least where the % hits the bar [even when the door is being upheld]) of the swinging door's front end. Make sure that the bar is jutted out from the direct underneath of the door. You will still be relying on other occupants to hone in on the alert.

Overall, a door handle alarm, one with static electric detection, is primarily good for good internal operating door handles, especially good locked internal operating door handles. For sure, they will never best a frame lock; instead, they are supposed to give you a time gap for awareness and preparation. Now, alarms aren't the best security, nor defense, but they can sure detect for what's up ahead, or at least opposite of the door. Well, they do provide some makeshift means of deterrence against roof and floor intrusions. Those incidents don't happen too often, but it sure is quite weird and unrealistic! Oh, be sure to check behind your shower/bathtub curtain FIRST per water closest visit (seriously, this is the most at-risk ambush coverage to look out for; the curtain greatly obscures view, but also provides ease of movement; behind the curtain, an attacker can engage your person without warning or retrieve your arm without warning; it is urgent that you must ready and retain control of your arm before navigating the curtain for inspection of possible danger [you may keep the curtain half open for ease of view; if you ever see a unexpected fully closed curtain, prepare thyself, place all held items on floor and ready arm before investigation]), rooms (don't forget the cabinets [place your cereal box in a kitchen cabinet after eating; bring it out before eating; for memory labeling reference to help you remember to check the kitchen cabinets too, you don't want to subconsciously walk back and forth, pacing, worrying about a possible cabinet ambush when you least expect it; it's exaggerating, I know, but maybe not!] and the [wall] closets [keep your distance when opening room/cabinet/closest door]) daily (optimally in morning [morning alone is good enough] and night), frame locks weekly, and inside and outside the roof periodically. Sometimes, there are attempts; some might be even just partially successful. It's best to stay on the safe side. And checking the roof might prevent a rained in disaster. Sometimes, I wonder if there is a long range static electricity detection alarm that could be of use? It would definitely cover quite the area! I just need to hide it with the best scan radius location.

---

I will add the post context/content to the correct coronavirus prepping subtopic. It's not really direct defense, but its detection sure supplement it significantly!

As for direct defense, yeah, surely a firearm will do its job. However, handling the weapon can be quite the hassle, especially in the dark. You can't light up the room because you would either be out of reach of your weapon, or the burglar/robber/intruder would have a focused awareness of possible defense. While light might give you a clearer picture, it is a double-edged sword, giving the burglar/robber/intruder a clearer picture. Don't expect the threat agent to run away, there's too many factors and conditions to assume a conclusion! If you are going to handle a long gun, it can be difficult to handle on the grips, requiring some memory cache stored in mind. You can't just focus on weapon retrieval and handling by memory alone in this situation. To counter long range theft, you can place it near the pillow, throw over a bed blanket, throw over some nonallergic weight (another lock box?) over its end and touching the wall. By hypothesis, assuming that nothing could go wrong, the method should work as foolproof. Even then, there are other practices yet to be mastered. This post isn't a training lesson plan as it's a very dynamic set of scenarios. Instead, I would at least suggest to go for glow-in-the-dark shaftment/finger(_pockets) palm line(s)/dot(s)/area (measurements: up to trigger area and not extended way down) cuts on handle/fore/back grips. The cuts need to be apparent, yet small enough to be concealed by equipping hand. We don't want the glow to give away the defender's location, right? That would be self-endangerment! Such cuts can work on handguns as well.

_________________
_
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IoFD-c740Y0, Must be the_washington_times/moonie anthem
link <- this as well!
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:ChoSh.jpg, resident alien generation? Wow!
_
Regurgitator monster to be resumed
whatissk/moonie/washingtontimes=anti-armistice nazi instigator-usurper/tyherantno parasite/censorship/anti-neutrality embargo/siege fallen cheonson-ilminismist/ilminazmist/merciless 'they live' mein kampf machine/kal_flight_007 self-victimization
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Fraud Alert Renewal Month: 03, 06, 09, and 12
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Thu Mar 11, 2021 12:06 am
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Post Re: Coronavirus or not, I shaved my own head! Among other th
I am trying to further my investigation on far range static electricity detection, but I see mostly 1 ~ few inch(es) static sensors or ionizers/charge_adjusters.

My best bet is the Klein Tools NCVT-4IR Non-Contact Voltage and Current Detectors. Note that I haven't tried it for myself, yet. link
However, the page reads only a physical range of 16" inches (or at least stated, not sure if it's true...), which is not really practical for a (pass/key locked [this is for later {might do remote notification as in silent alarm in case of a demand for a situation}]) far range static electricity detection/sensor alarm.

Anyways, it is definitely a future thing, but I really really think that with radars and such, it should have been made a long long time ago. Maybe people are keeping such inventions/devices secret?

---

Yes, there's lasers, even invisible lasers, but that's determinant digital signals (discrete values). I prefer to test more varied analog waves (continuous values). Maybe, I will look into radio frequencies or vibration types (via speaker/microphone as input?). If necessary, I probably mix in the 3/4 detection types (static electricity, laser [but seriously, it requires a receiving reader, or signal feedback], radio frequencies, and vibration) for various reasons.

_________________
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IoFD-c740Y0, Must be the_washington_times/moonie anthem
link <- this as well!
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:ChoSh.jpg, resident alien generation? Wow!
_
Regurgitator monster to be resumed
whatissk/moonie/washingtontimes=anti-armistice nazi instigator-usurper/tyherantno parasite/censorship/anti-neutrality embargo/siege fallen cheonson-ilminismist/ilminazmist/merciless 'they live' mein kampf machine/kal_flight_007 self-victimization
nsfw
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Fraud Alert Renewal Month: 03, 06, 09, and 12
My ZDoom mods
Viva Le Resistance! (threat: see ☠Image☠ below...)
Metal tracking mods
sfw
Spoiler: show
https://archive.org/download/for_jihad_monsters/Lightning%20Exclusive%20Nasheed%20By%20Ahmad%20Al-Muqit.mp3


Sat Mar 13, 2021 12:09 am
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Post Re: Coronavirus or not, I shaved my own head! Among other th
As far as acquiring ranged detection methods, I did look into https://wallethacks.com/battery-hacks/ . I read that a 9v is actually 6 AAAs inside! Note that 9v may or may not be chargeable. lol

That's dandy when things get a bit tight and the battery prices are ripping everybody off.

---

Back to the corona recession desperation, we can assume that people are snooping for the next available thing to loot or shoplift. That be the mailbox! Sure, you can put a lock and shit like that, but we're talking about the loss of mail in any form. Theft is not necessary, and matter of property damage, tampering, or just sabotage, is good enough! It happens more with public mailboxes! Like, oh my gosh, right? You have to go in person for the matter of transfers or transactions. Oh, I guess checks are also a potential for things gone wild. It could be a potential for losses, but what do I know, right? I'll just burn up the excess and reserve and just use what the institutions have at office hours, if they opened...

If this post is worth noting, I would probably put it under the confidentiality sub-topic.

_________________
_
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IoFD-c740Y0, Must be the_washington_times/moonie anthem
link <- this as well!
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:ChoSh.jpg, resident alien generation? Wow!
_
Regurgitator monster to be resumed
whatissk/moonie/washingtontimes=anti-armistice nazi instigator-usurper/tyherantno parasite/censorship/anti-neutrality embargo/siege fallen cheonson-ilminismist/ilminazmist/merciless 'they live' mein kampf machine/kal_flight_007 self-victimization
nsfw
Spoiler: show
Fraud Alert Renewal Month: 03, 06, 09, and 12
My ZDoom mods
Viva Le Resistance! (threat: see ☠Image☠ below...)
Metal tracking mods
sfw
Spoiler: show
https://archive.org/download/for_jihad_monsters/Lightning%20Exclusive%20Nasheed%20By%20Ahmad%20Al-Muqit.mp3


Sun Mar 21, 2021 12:17 pm
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Post Re: Coronavirus or not, I shaved my own head! Among other th
Now that I have the motion alarms setup (most notably, the "Sabre Home Series" Motion Sensing Ceiling Alarm [Model HS-MSCA {there's a HS-MSA version, which seems to covers only horizontal 120 angle degrees, with vertical 0 ~ 120 pitch degrees; HS-MSCA covers horizontal 180 ~ 360 angle degrees, with vertical 100 ~ 120 pitch degrees}]), I have to tell a bit of flaws.

Motion sensing ceiling alarm detection (or at least of this brand) consists of strictly infrared radiation. Infrared radiation is basically heat in scientific study jargon. While I am not sure of vibration in person, the very physical forces should produce heat. The alarm may or may not detect the level of heat produced by vibration. If you try to hand it while in its activation, you will sound off the freaking alarm! Despite the confidence in its reliability and reach, at least for press release, this alarm do have a few problems that must be addressed. One, it only detects heat in the matter of temperature change. I suppose that a adaptive suit, like one of a cameleon, to blend in with background temperature, can bypass detection. Two, its said alarm mode vigilance is lacking by its alarm delay to sound off the speakers (this is to cater to remote controlled alarm disarmament). It is fucking surprising loud though. It could also be very harmful to all persons. There's a trade-off here somewhere. Three, I feel that the detection distance range, which is said to be 20 feet, or 6 meters, to be still short. In testing, I find that its reach hits off to about a small bedroom size dimension. Horizontal and vertical angles may not reach wide enough. Supposedly that the farther, the greater in coverage. The maximum limit is quite limited though! That's not so great, but you get what you pay for. Four, more importantly, above all other flaws, is the detection scan performance. Maybe it's just the temperature stasis and fluctuation, but the alarm doesn't chime consistently enough. Maybe, there are differences between alarm and chime mode? Perhaps in the level of aggressiveness? Once again, there's a trade-off.

Before we go on, I must inform you that this device is of course, a electronic device. Being a electronic device, the battery installation must be in the correct polarity diagram. That means to have the battery's polarity terminal ends to correctly align center with the devices polarity terminal ends counterpart. I don't see these devices marketed too often, so I expect some malfunctions. True to my dismay, I have witnessed a hang in error, with a periodic beeping/clicking/both sound. Something got hanged! I think that the hang up is more common with the highest sensitivity mode.

To remedy this problem, I need to apply enough electro charges to the metal bar. That solution would be your handy dandy hair dry! Looks like fashion is useful after all! Of course, cupping over the speaker may help in retaining enough heat to generate temperature rise. The first thing you do, is to set off the alarm. The second is obviously to heat up the bar; you may cover the speaker with your palm, if you feel as necessary. Your (sensitive) alarm should be ready to go after a bit, or while, of heating. I hope that this advice helps you, somehow...


The greatest potential of the alarm is obviously the old ass business advice, "location, location, location. After all, we must exploit its ranged potential, despite its weaknesses. Now, it is said to be a ceiling, but what if there be no touching the ceiling? After all, we're getting quite the lack in distance range and other substandard factors. Surely, there's got to be another way! Well, there's always individual placement, the first alternative. Placing the alarm tilted slanted with some support structure, will force the center of the pitch to home in on the specified area. It's kind of like a camera. I recommend not to just plop the alarm on the floor face up. It's field of view cannot cover much of its sides. Well, maybe it can, but I highly doubt it could detect with its underside. The second alternative is placing the alarm to face a door of a room. If you will occupy the room, make sure that the focusing mechanism is facing the door and not your person. When someone opens the door, the alarm may alert or notify of his/her/its presence. For sure, a step or two will sound off the alarm. However, given the closing gap between the alarm and door, it could be of ease to deactivate the alarm. Such a close reach would defeat its purpose as a ranged detector. You would have been better off with a contact detector. The third alternative seems to be the most stable/rigid/fixated. The alarm could be watching a door entry, or watching your personals. Most likely, you would want to face the alarm towards your personals (the motive of home invasion is usually theft, if not escalating to some violent situation), but do leave them in a enclosed furniture drawer box locked file cabinet drawer box. It is better with heavy load so access would be as squeaking and grating as possible. If possible, the container should have its own vibration alarm. The bar should touch both front and side surfaces of a container drawer. Make sure it fits, but can still rattle! You want this to detect vibrations, not sit still. You got to utilize all while you can! In addition, the alarm should also guard (facing not required [it would be more annoying than it already is]) your arm. I would not know much about arm placement, it's a shot in the dark. However, you don't want it to be within authorized reach. Keep it off edges and windows, and authorized handling should be fine. Make sure to use as wide of a field to scan as much of the affected perimeter as possible. That means placing the alarm's back to some inner corner (room not required), utilizing as much sides and heights as possible. However, that's not enough. The motion alarm may not trigger enough to provide alert notice. It might be too slow and a mere (yet smart) flip can be accessible for disablement. In that case, to stall such interruptions, a very very large storage bin lid (its length should estimate to a door's width) will be reinforced behind the alarm. This is for good measure in case there is no solid obstacle upholding the alarm. You want to slow down the theft attempt, if not being able to prevent it. If you need to control the field so that your sleep won't sound off the alarm, you can use storage boxes (trash bin[s] help) and dumbbells for proper placement to control the line of sight. Dumbbells can prop up the angle too! Let us admit that the the "Sabre Home Series" Motion Sensing Ceiling Alarm (Model HS-MSCA) sucks to some degree. The chime is minimal, yet somewhat repetitive. The alarm noise takes about a 30 seconds delay to set off the noise. We want loud, yet ready. Thankfully, this motion alarm has some sense of vibration to work with. If we insert the "Sabre Home Series" Door Handle Alarm (Model HS-DHA) between the dumbell and motion alarm, it can act as the noise, while the motion act as the trigger. Make sure to have the vibration to support the motion, angle about 45 degrees should do it. Have the motion to chime mode (it doesn't vibrate upon detection, it delays first before noise and vibration, sorry), and vibration to alarm mode (it isn't as loud as one would think, but it could stack up the annoyance factor pretty quickly). If the floor doesn't work for you (due to possible surface trespassing and navigation [plus that you could not provide the proper impediment/countermeasures for it] in case in ease of reach), and for good enough suspicion (reason not required), particularly in surface trespassing and navigation, you may try the window corner prop support. The window corner prop support do require a stand to uphold the alarm on its cylindric side. The stand would be the convenient headboard, which is a furniture that just found another role other than a thermal wall mitigater. The alarm will still roll over like roly poly so find its balance, especially to maximize sensor input recipiency. The scan should scan a wider radius than a bed/furniture/rummage obstacle permit, and is only limited by the headboard, which can interfere to hinder performance. Therefore, DISTANCING THE SENSOR DOME LEN FROM THE HEADBOARD (OR COVERING THE RED POWER INDICATOR LEN BEHIND THE HEADBOARD) AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE IS STILL REQUIRED FOR MAXIMIZING PERFORMANCE! In fact, it's better than the floor prop support in efficiency (and security [as excessively necessary {you do what you have to do}]) sense. The only problem is a higher chance of false positives so watch your step. Plus, you won't be able to detect on the floor level at all, regardless of the previous method's limited scan coverage (actually this is its plus side, to scan while mitigating as much false positives as possible). I still think that impediment is much more better than detection. Maybe it's not combat immune nor resistant, but at least it serves a peacetime (or nothing that pertains to state of emergency or martial law situations) civilian environment? The motion itself is not enough to work as a detection deterrent because of its own design limitations. We will have to compensate with a "Sabre Home Series" Door Handle Alarm (Model HS-DHA). Place the top area of vibration's side bar (vibration alarm will be upside down) above and then between the top and bottom side of the motion, with the vibration's bottom tilted against the window glass adjacent to the window wall/reveal (UPDATE: There's a very slight margin of error that the vibration's placement will not register the motion's chime activation. I'm not so sure why, but it must be the lack of contact with the surface area. For a higher chance of success, shift the vibration's alarm mode side to lean/rest parallel against on the window wall/reveal. It's still possible to slip up with the striked out alternative method as mentioned in the previous three sentences. If you are just too old/stupid/busy/tired to take precaution, you might lose out on detection alarm assurance. I was actually pretty much against this next simple method due to its nature of being more tamper prone than tamper proof. Still, it's a foundation that's [relatively] rock solid, plus it saves on recharge time. If this alternative method proves to have more pros than cons, then I will strike over any window related methods for the headboard scan. On the window floor/sill, next to the headboard, place the vibration alarm with its alarm mode switch towards the window [glass]. Next, place the motion alarm's side within above the bar of the vibration alarm and adjacent to the window wall/reveal. Motion alarm must be rotated to align its face parallel to the back of the headboard. If things work fine enough, and given a high probability of relative base/foundation stability, the alarm combo should be able to detect on the set angle and pitch degrees and trigger the vibration's alarm mode upon its terminal register of its alarm sound. You should be able to get 100% chance of the vibration reading of the registered motion's chime activation [it's possible that batteries could be a problem as well, charge periodically whenever possible], but I haven't stress test enough [if battery charge is phasing out, remove the motion's mounting bracket before placing the motion alarm's side above the bar of the vibration alarm and adjacent to the window wall/reveal. Motion alarm must be rotated to align its face parallel to the back of the headboard]). There should be enough sensitivity in detecting/reading a registered motion alarm's chime activation. And if the headboard method stopped working, use the footboard method mentioned a few page scrolls below. Important (especially if you didn't catch the hint the last time/sentence [containing the non-bold capped words]), make sure to adjust, rotate, and align the motion component's face as parallel as possible to the headboard's back surface. That means motion alarm's face to headboard's back surface as possible, touching. Also important (especially if you didn't catch the hint the last time/sentence [containing the non-bold capped words]), make sure to also adjust, rotate, face, and align the vibration component's bar + side as parallel as possible to the window floor's/sill's edge. That means vibration alarm's bar + side within window floor's/sill's edge as possible, no jutting out of the window reveal/floor/sill space. And if the headboard method stopped working, use the footboard method mentioned a few page scrolls below. Despite the weight imbalance of the sensor dome len's maximum distance from the headboard, you still want to cover as much horizontal span as possible. Have the vibration's detection mode slide switch hidden from sight. The vibration should sound off its alarm right after the motion's initial average curved audio frequency. The combo is on a higher elevation so reach will be more delayed if not difficult. The window corner prop support also require a properly secured window and door before setup. Have the motion to chime mode (it doesn't vibrate upon detection, it delays first before noise and vibration, sorry), and vibration to alarm mode (it isn't as loud as one would think, but it could stack up the annoyance factor pretty quickly). Alarm mode do differentiate from chime mode in level of detection, especially for window prop design. Do test in alarm mode before leaving the combo activated in alarm mode. Just for good measure, place a pet alarm nearby (maximum distance about 60 inches [I would go with about 36 inches], but it is best to be also within close proximity to your person) the combo, with the detection mode settings to high. Note that the scan of the motion is limited to its range and angle/pitch field. It cannot completely scan the footboard or foot area of the bed. I'm not implying a possible personal assault/battery, particularly of determined, but mitigated deliberation (although it is possible by reach, access, and manipulation of obstructing material), but rather any chattel property within the area might be at risk. If you do have such item(s) in the area, and it is still of priority to deter as much theft and tampering, you (might, but I would rather that you) need another motion-vibration alarm set. Have its coordinated foundation on a wardrobe or tall enough furniture, it must be also stray from doors that may adjust its position flat area of a cabinet's top surface/desk's top surface. The set should be facing perpendicular to the headboard's set point of scan field, near parallel and aligned to the footboard in order to scan the foot area of the bed. The setup is simply to prop the motion on its cylindrical side, achieving a balanced point of gravity. Have a light enough dumbbell (or any item/material to act as framework [e.g. angle degrees elevation of swinging door from a wardrobe storage cabinet with 2 swinging doors as floor frame support and pitch degrees elevation of {plastic} clothes hanger clamped by the same swinging door; push motion between {plastic} clothes hanger and more surface area of door {or other item/material as framework} in order to secure its position from slips and falls; adjust coordinates of motion and pitch degrees elevation of {plastic} clothes hanger's top side of the head's tip as necessary in order to achieve secure position stability; results should have the combo scan a wider degree in detection]) to support, mount, and secure the motion's set position. That way, when the alarm set rings off, the vibration will not slip easily from the motion's roll due to the lack of secure mount for the set. Place the top area of vibration's side bar (vibration alarm will be upside down) above and then between the top and bottom side of the motion, with the vibration's bottom tilted backwards against the window glass adjacent to the window wall. (UPDATE: There's a very slight margin of error that the vibration's placement will not register the motion's chime activation. I'm not so sure why, but it must be the lack of contact with the surface area. For a higher chance of success, tilt the vibration forward to rest its face on the headboard. It's still possible to slip up with the striked out alternative method as mentioned in the previous three sentences. If you are just too old/stupid/busy/tired to take precaution, you might lose out on detection alarm assurance. I was actually pretty much against this next simple method due to its nature of being more tamper prone than tamper proof. Still, it's a foundation that's (relatively) rock solid, plus it saves on recharge time. If this alternative method proves to have more pros than cons, then I will strike over any wardrobe/hanger related methods for the footboard scan. On the flat area of the cabinet's/desk's top surface, remove the motion's mounting bracket and place it face down; place the vibration's front/back parallel on motion's removed mounting bracket's rear, particularly estimates between the two wall nail mounts with its top of its bar aligning with the outer edge of the motion's removed mounting bracket's rear.[strike] put it away from the pending footboard alarm combo set. The motion's mounting bracket doesn't have a headboard or the like to support its role/position in the pending footboard alarm combo set. Rotate the motion in (maybe) upside-down (or not) position and place its side between the vibration's bar and base component. VERY IMPORTANT! ROTATION MUST GUARANTEE THAT THE MOTION'S SPEAKER/SENSOR_LEN_DOME BE ABOVE THE VIBRATION'S BAR!!! MAKE SURE ITS HEIGHT IS NOT THE LOWEST DENOMINATOR. THIS IS KEY TO SUCCESS, PLEASE ACCESS HEADBOARD ALARM COMBO SET SECTION FOR EXPERIMENT REFERENCE!!! Make that motion's mounting side edge notches forward after the vibration's fourth bar ring as base to offsets. Be careful to not let the (maybe) upside-down (or not) motion to slip up from the vibration's bar (there is a similar method, but it is too focus attentive plus timing issues with alarm setup convenience). It's a weight distribution on a skateboard/seesaw/lever thing, but for sure, it feels like a guaranteed success. If things work fine enough, and given a high probability of relative base/foundation stability, the alarm combo should be able to detect on the set angle and pitch degrees and trigger the vibration's alarm mode upon its terminal register of its alarm sound. You should be able to get 100% chance of the vibration reading of the registered motion's chime activation [it's possible that batteries could be a problem as well, charge periodically whenever possible], but I haven't stress test enough). There should be enough sensitivity in detecting/reading a registered motion alarm's chime activation. Important (especially if you didn't catch the hint the last time/sentence [containing the non-bold capped words]), make sure to adjust, rotate, and align the (maybe) upside-down (or not) motion component's side as perpendicular as possible to the side of the vibration's bar. That means (maybe) upside-down (or not) motion alarm's side to vibration's side of the vibration's bar (finer details require motion's speaker/sensor_len_dome above the vibration's bar! [its height must not be in the lowest denominator]), with motion's mounting side edge notched forward after the vibration's fourth bar ring as base to offsets. Despite the weight imbalance of the sensor dome len's maximum distance from the footboard, you still want to cover as much horizontal span as possible. Have the vibration's detection mode slide switch hidden from sight. The vibration should sound off its alarm right after the motion's initial average curved audio frequency. The combo is on a higher elevation so reach will be more delayed if not difficult. The cabinet/desk corner prop support also require a properly secured window and door before setup. Have the motion to chime mode (it doesn't vibrate upon detection, it delays first before noise and vibration, sorry), and vibration to alarm mode (it isn't as loud as one would think, but it could stack up the annoyance factor pretty quickly). Alarm mode do differentiate from chime mode in level of detection, especially for cabinet/desk prop design. Do test in alarm mode before leaving the combo activated in alarm mode. [strike]If you do not want the current footboard combo setup, due to its similarities of the window prop design, and rightfully so, you can change the setup to the exact headboard combo setup. Should operate in the same manner. It is also good against switch access via furniture door. As good as this method sounds as sound, detection is only good as its variables and parameters. Seriously, if you find in a situation when alarms just make near 100% coverage as possible, it could be a serious concern, one that could escalate into a deadly situation. How deadly? Well, if a fucking serial killer starts doing this, a manhunt/posse/inquisition/vigilantism is justified because it's like the werewolf or monster that fervent medieval people been harping about, with great fervour! We want to have the alarms at utmost ready steady first, not delayed. Then, we can worry about the volume. Since you would have actually make a sufficient motion detector alarm system, maybe it's time to lock down on the supplies. We wouldn't know who be determined/angry enough to change the course of events. Remotes, batteries, chargers, and maybe extra alarm devices, need to be wrapped up in plastic wrap, and locked in a very big lock box (cable lock required to chain onto something sturdy and/or resilient enough), file cabinet, or/and safe. Slightly off-topic, if you want, use a carabiner to connect both arm's trigger front side and keys together. It will certainly raise the stakes, but at least, it is technically on your person. Of course, the more alarms to improve detection and alertness, the better. Just don't go all out with the sirens due to its potential of audible/mental damage. It's all poison so take your pick. Yeah, that's great and all, but that's like internal security, through internal detection. Yeah, I know. It's just that with these alarms, its design is intended for inside use, especially for those of a particular distance within the confines of a certain sector. Of course, you can install this alarm outside, but you will risk the loss of device by environmental forces. Note that these alarms may not work well with any animate objects that don't emit much heat! This is true for moving doors hiding the person, plus I think that a fucking hand would quickly disarm the sound once a break-in (especially of a hot prowl burglary) is successful. While these alarms sport range, their hit ratio is sluggish at times. That's not much leverage. Will solely rely on a lock to prevent/delay a quick reset. Your second best bet would be using more alarms. They be either for ceiling and/or door handles. Hopefully, you wouldn't need to activate the alarm mode for multiple alarm devices. Of course, the other better way to prevent easy unauthorized reset (due to its potential lack in ease of access), would be hidden ranged motion sensor alarms.

We covered the where, but how about when? The best possible situation is obviously when being alerted to a unknown presence is required. A wakeup call is one example. Being focused on work, bath(room), and sleep, but need some safety measure, is another. You MUST use the proper alarm when not carrying your personals (THAT MEANS TO CARRY YOUR BELONGINGS WITH YOUR PERSON UNTIL YOU DEPLOY THE PROPER ALARM TO HELP YOU GUARD THEM!!! [vehicle remotes are considered personals so before deploying alarm, wrap them in plastic wrap {in order to protect against potential humidity} before sealing it with a case/pouch]), but stay near enough to hear the alarm situated with your belongings within the occupied room (e.g. only you and only your belongings in that room); do arm yourself with defense (safely if possible [probably best with alarm mode, probably, but inconvenient]) should the case of the unexpected arise. NEWS FLASH!!! Should you ever need to go to the restroom, it is best, as a precaution, to ALWAYS take your belongings with you to the restroom. I don't care if it is just peeing or pooping. Or that there is an interference with a dress code. A time away is an opportunity for the magical disappearing act to happen! When unable to carry on your person, practice the drawer box storage technique. No, you do not need to bring the (door handle) alarm if you are peeing or pooping (and sensory detection able). You do need to arm yourself with defense as safely as possible (this is especially true during times of darkness, when nobody is around, but daylight is not guarantee either); in case of a unexpected assault, you will never (always) know when danger strikes. Maybe it is (over-)paranoid, but during times of (emergency) crisis, you might run into a desperate burglary/robbery situation. It's the darnest things that can be ever done! Sometimes, it can reach to a dangerous situation. Reasons? Who the hell knows? It could been anything in times of (emergency crisis). Should you need to use the alarm while you are away, you will be relying on other occupants to hone in on the alert. Before setting alarm mode, make sure that the trusted occupants are okay with it. It's quite the painful deafening experience. For door scenarios, alarm mode is definitely louder and more receptive to perception. You will still be relying on other occupants to hone in on the alert. Once again, before setting alarm mode, make sure that the trusted occupants are okay with it. It's quite the painful deafening experience.

Overall, a ceiling alarm, one with ranged heat detection, is primarily good for good spacious room sectors, especially good locked spacious room sectors (you don't want to give intruders a head start to disarm the alarm; performance may still vary by the condition of detection capabilities and temperature variance). For sure, they will never best a frame lock; instead, they are supposed to give you a time gap for awareness and preparation. Now, alarms aren't the best security, nor defense, but they can sure detect for what's up ahead, or at least opposite of the door. Well, they do provide some makeshift means of deterrence against roof and floor intrusions. Those incidents don't happen too often, but it sure is quite weird and unrealistic! Oh, be sure to check your shower/bathtub curtain FIRST per water closest visit (seriously, this is the most at-risk ambush coverage to look out for; the curtain greatly obscures view, but also provides ease of movement; behind the curtain, an attacker can engage your person without warning or retrieve your arm without warning; it is urgent that you must ready and retain control of your arm before navigating the curtain for inspection of possible danger [you may keep the curtain half open for ease of view; if you ever see a unexpected fully closed curtain, prepare thyself, place all held items on floor and ready arm before investigation]), rooms (don't forget the cabinets [place your cereal box in a kitchen cabinet after eating; bring it out before eating; for memory labeling reference to help you remember to check the kitchen cabinets too, you don't want to subconsciously walk back and forth, pacing, worrying about a possible cabinet ambush when you least expect it; it's exaggerating, I know, but maybe not!] and the [wall] closets [keep your distance when opening room/cabinet/closest door]) daily (optimally in morning [morning alone is good enough] and night), frame locks weekly, and inside and outside the roof periodically. Sometimes, there are attempts; some might be even just partially successful. It's best to stay on the safe side. And checking the roof might prevent a rained in disaster. Sometimes, I wonder if there is a long range static electricity detection alarm that could be of use? It would definitely cover quite the area! I just need to hide it with the best scan radius location.

---

I will add the post context/content to the correct coronavirus prepping subtopic. It's not really direct defense, but its detection sure supplement it significantly!

As for direct defense, yeah, surely a firearm will do its job. However, handling the weapon can be quite the hassle, especially in the dark. You can't light up the room because you would either be out of reach of your weapon, or the burglar/robber/intruder would have a focused awareness of possible defense. While light might give you a clearer picture, it is a double-edged sword, giving the burglar/robber/intruder a clearer picture. Don't expect the threat agent to run away, there's too many factors and conditions to assume a conclusion! If you are going to handle a long gun, it can be difficult to handle on the grips, requiring some memory cache stored in mind. You can't just focus on weapon retrieval and handling by memory alone in this situation. To counter long range theft, you can place it near the pillow, throw over a bed blanket, throw over some nonallergic weight (another lock box? [right angle] flashlight?) over its end and touching the wall. By hypothesis, assuming that nothing could go wrong, the method should work as foolproof. Even then, there are other practices yet to be mastered. There are other practices yet to be mastered. This post isn't a training lesson plan as it's a very dynamic set of scenarios. Instead, I would at least suggest to go for glow-in-the-dark shaftment/finger(_pockets) palm line(s)/dot(s)/area (measurements: up to trigger area and not extended way down) cuts on handle/fore/back grips. The cuts need to be apparent, yet small enough to be concealed by equipping hand. We don't want the glow to give away the defender's location, right? That would be self-endangerment! Such cuts can work on handguns as well.

_________________
_
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IoFD-c740Y0, Must be the_washington_times/moonie anthem
link <- this as well!
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:ChoSh.jpg, resident alien generation? Wow!
_
Regurgitator monster to be resumed
whatissk/moonie/washingtontimes=anti-armistice nazi instigator-usurper/tyherantno parasite/censorship/anti-neutrality embargo/siege fallen cheonson-ilminismist/ilminazmist/merciless 'they live' mein kampf machine/kal_flight_007 self-victimization
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Sat Mar 27, 2021 12:50 am
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Post Re: Coronavirus or not, I shaved my own head! Among other th
Something about the rooftop is a happening! This is an area that I admit I lack proper coverage upon. It's true that some fucking motherfucker goes tromping/TRESPASSING on the roof for some fucking reason (he deserves to die and burn like a fucking piece of shit). I don't know why he would do this, especially after a through lock and check up. This type of fucking persistence can only indicate the level of aggression to increase. That means there's a incremental chance for a violent felony to occur!

That felony would be called the fucking trespass/ambush, or in some cases, the ninja drop. It's like a fucking predator/alien/batman monster that's ready to pounce upon its unsuspecting (or unaware) victim. That's some fucked up shit, especially if you cannot find a way to safely monitor what goes up on gargoyle land!

The rooftop post gets its own trespassing countermeasure post because it is trespassing without readily accessible detection/transverse. You wouldn't normally see or know where is the intruder.

LION RAWR!

---

What I propose, but only in speculation, is a spy drone (aka quadcopter or quadrotor [best {as in close to optimal performance} be said the xFold {or even multiple, maybe coordinating at the same time! It's gonna be this song! VERY STATE OF THE ARTISH!!! YES, VERY EXPENSE!}, by ZM Interactive]). The camera would need to work at a 360 degrees (or at least omni-directional). Motion sensors at a 360 degrees (or at least omni-directional) would be another great option. The drone itself might need to be up running as 24/7 as possible. It might need a workaround during rainy or snowy days. The monitoring needs to have playback review options. Both the monitoring and remote control probably needs to be portable in case of the situation that calls for it. The batteries to all devices needs a convenient recharge time. The distance needs to be far from reach, but near enough to communicate recording. So far, it's not going to happen anytime soon.

Yeah, it's pretty complicated crap. There's not much working solution against this type of attack. The most convenient way, is to transverse over the roof yourself, but getting down can be quite burdensome, plus immobile and vulnerable to ambushes lying in wait. You can get a camera, but you can't see much in terms of away from the monitor. The camera can be vandalized anyways, thus, this is why I propose the quadcopter in the first place. The heat detector would do too, but it's the same situation as the camera.

It's all quite shit. The best bet is just some patrol/surveillance duty by a police quadcopter. It will scan about for sneaky mutherfuckers, especially those reported. Otherwise, it's hard to determine what's going on until you get the whole picture. It is also controversial due to the possibility of incriminating evidence.

This is when some dude says that a machine gun, or repeating firearm(s), would be quite quite convenient, especially to wipe out the mutherfuckers. Surf's up, muthafucker.

Surfaris - Wipe Out

Link

_________________
_
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IoFD-c740Y0, Must be the_washington_times/moonie anthem
link <- this as well!
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:ChoSh.jpg, resident alien generation? Wow!
_
Regurgitator monster to be resumed
whatissk/moonie/washingtontimes=anti-armistice nazi instigator-usurper/tyherantno parasite/censorship/anti-neutrality embargo/siege fallen cheonson-ilminismist/ilminazmist/merciless 'they live' mein kampf machine/kal_flight_007 self-victimization
nsfw
Spoiler: show
Fraud Alert Renewal Month: 03, 06, 09, and 12
My ZDoom mods
Viva Le Resistance! (threat: see ☠Image☠ below...)
Metal tracking mods
sfw
Spoiler: show
https://archive.org/download/for_jihad_monsters/Lightning%20Exclusive%20Nasheed%20By%20Ahmad%20Al-Muqit.mp3


Fri Apr 02, 2021 6:31 pm
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